In my small garden, a wall from my neighbour’s house extension has always felt a sort of in my way. I thought a lot about making this wall a bit more visually attractive and I came up with this:
I created a setup with impregnated wooden garden planks, which I splitted lenghtwise with my small portable sawmill. The wood carries around 20 small 3d-printed flower pots in all sort of colors and shapes.
In the flower pots, I put in a variety of small plants plants of which most of them can withstand the Dutch winter time, so I don’t need to replace all plants next year.
Also, I put in an automated solar-powered watering system that utilises my rain water gathering supply bins.
I am very happy with the result!
Below in this post I have gathered my flower pot designs for this wall, if you click the images, the STL file will be automatically downloaded to your device.
10mm wall plate for 55x110mm air duct. The wall plates are glued in place in the wall and are also used for covering the sides of the through-hole in the wall. The 55×110 air duct will then pass through the glued-in wall plates on either side of the wall.
40mm wall plate for 55x110mm air duct.wall_plate, extended to 60mm for 55x110mm air duct. This piece connects through the wall and fits in one of the above wall plate-pieceswall plate with short 90 degrees angled bend. Both sides connect to a 55x110mm air duct
90 degrees bend for 55x110mm air duct90 degrees bend for 110x55mm air ductpipe connector piece with 15mm offset, both sides connect to a 55x110mm air ductslim mounting bracket for 55x110mm air ducts
transition piece from round 150mm air filter box output to 55x110mm air duct, wall_mountedendcap for 55x110mm air duct
Download the CNC controller box design file via the above link in 1 piece which will take around a day or more to print.
The CNC box design is also available in 4 separate design STL parts that interlock very well and will have to be glued together. These STL downloads are available further below.
The tilted top panel is available for downloading just above this text and houses a FysetC Duepanel 7 inch LCD module that interconnects to the FlyCDY2 or 3 ( and also to the Duet3, obviously).
The box and panel also include holes for a 24-pins multiconnector on top, a panic button on top, an 80mm fan unit, a filtered power inlet unit (in my case, for 230V Europe standard) and 3 button holes on the tilted panel, as well as a small hole for a voltage reading unit. Any other required holes can best be done after printing. Just with normal tools, by using painters tape first to cause minimal collateral damage to the case.
All parts that can be screwed on or-in, can utilize M3 threaded inserts at the mounting points inside. The holes are supporting these. This is not done for thePSU (obviously, the M4 mounting bolts run through the case). The fan is mounted with M3 bolts from the outside through the case and secured with nuts against the fan’s body.
CNC CONTROL BOX DESIGN, PRINTABLE IN 4 INTERLOCKING PARTS:
I always print tools and toolcases in ABS at 260-270 degrees and 40% infill. The front is printed with 100% infill. Use minimal support for these parts but always use maximal adhesion!
Also, set Cura to a shrinkage correction of 100.7%, due to ABS black shrinkage of 2.2 mm on the long side of the box. (The xSize should be 295 and this was measured 292.9 after being printed as full box)
For constructing the box from 4 individually printed parts, first connect the bottom parts without glue. Then, attach both the sides and screw in the front panel. Then, where needed file or sand off ledges so it all fits properly. Then, remount it all and let the glue find its way between the connecting overlapping ledges that connect the parts.
Be aware to print the 2 side parts and the rear part with the rasters down on the printer’s bottom plate.
Print the front part with the bottom down.
All parts will print best with support 85% AND adhesion outside only ON.
Print support with 85% angle support everywhere at 5%, so the M3threaded bussupports will be printed well.
PRINT ORIENTATION EXAMPLE (Cura, VORON 2.4-600)
Please be aware that the 4-part design is developed with printing in mind, so the horizontal printing orientation as shown above is the only way to avoid overhangs in the interlocking ledges. This also goes for individual printing of each part.
Due to the DUET3 control board’s size, it does not fit into the previously developed CNC housing for a FLY_CDY board, so a lot of modifications had to be made.
DUET3 motherboard
The box and faceplate for DUET3 is available as a preliminary (V13) OBJ design HERE.
Further development is ongoing on this CNC enclosure for DUET3.
Side view of the CNC workbee DUET3 enclosure, with the cutouts for the reset, microsdCard, USB and Ethernet connection visible below, left of centre. The canbus connection can be seen at the front of the enclosure, at the bottom.
TOP view of the CNC workbee DUET3 housing, with the cutouts and attachment points for the threaded inserts visible at top left
Please donate $1 to my paypal account if you use (parts of) my designs so I can continue to share nice stuff for you to download
I also added a mini board with a clock chip, DS3231 to the XIAO USB-C board, and an LDR to make the RGB’s brighter when they are used during daylight conditions. An example Arduino code with clock function is HERE.
The LDR is mounted, the clock board is not yet mounted. A clock board is only required if you want to use the clock functions. Using an LDR is highly recommended.
The LDR is mounted on the XIAO board’s top on A0 and GND, so it can be flush to the outer skin of the case through the dedicated LDR hole. Be aware to also add a 10K resistor between A0 and 3v3 since this board does not have programmable PULL-UP resistors.
The mini DS3231 clock board is connected to the XIAO’s pins A4 and A5, 3V3 and GND. There is also a small battery on the little clock board., so the time will always be available. I mounted the clock board so that the DS3231 chip is flat against the RP2040 chip. Then, the Data in and out of the clock board are then facing D4 and D5 of the RP2040. I used 2 Arduino pin headers to connect these data lines together. 3V3 aand GND are connected between the boards using thin wires.
Output to the LED’s is on pin 3 (D3). For the LEDS, also VCC and GND are required, either from the XIAO board’s VCC and GND pins or from the board’s 5V power supply +5V and GND connections. The LDR is mounted making use of a little stud, cut off from the tiny clock board since they have to be removed from the clock board anyway. This makes the LDR fit the box’s LDR hole perfectly.
For resetting an DR2040, a small hole is made to reach the little BOOT switch. This is sometimes required since the RP2040 can get bricked when a non-working void is uploaded. Push the boot butten when powering up, release the button and the RP2040 is in recovery status. Up[load a simple program and the RP2040 will resume normal functioning. Then, the normal COM port will work again an normal flashing is again possible.
The case has a snap-on lid that will also fixate the outlet cable for the RGB LED’s.
Please donate $1 to my paypal account if you use (parts of) my designs so I can continue to share nice stuff for you to download
Import all 6 STL files into a slicer that is set for use with a 3d multicolor printer. Then, assign each ring to a specific color, merge and export the gcode file to printer or flie.
