Category: 3D printing

So- what do you think is wrong with this ABS printed testcube after my switch from a standard 0.5 mm nozzle to an 0.6mm Chinese CHT high-flow nozzle?

I did not change anything other than the Curaslicer settings from 0.5mm to 0.6mm and also in Klipper, in the printer.cfg I also changed the setting from 0.5 to 0.6mm nozzle diameter.

Obviously, I also resliced the gcode before printing the testcubes.

It has been printed on my Voron 2.4R1- 300. with a nozzle as shown in the below picture:

These specific nozzles should be able to produce more flow since the input channel consists out of 3- instead of 1- little hole.  The tip is – of course- only 1 hole.

Remedies:

After the failed print, I did the following:

Changed the ABS filament for a fresh pack. No change.

I checked the retraction settings in Curaslicer which were just fine, between 0.5 and 1mm.

Tested the gcode on my big Voron which also has an 0.6 nozzle and this worked just fine.

So- I checked the input of the filament for drag and it went very difficult.  Apparantly something causes drag in the way from the enclosed filament box to the extruder.

Exchanged the filament sensor because it caused quite some drag and this made some difference in the printed result but not that much.

Checked the extruder and recalibrated this, no change needed.  50 mm extrusion was indeed exactly 50mm filament going in.

All seemed OK but I still got the same blobby outside on the printed testcube.

So- finally I unscrewed the nozzle and- guess what: It is an 0.8 mm nozzle which came in the same small plastic bag along with all of my ordered 0.6 mm nozzles.  Should have checked this beforehand, obviously!

Put a new Chinese CHT 0.6 mm nozzle in from the bag and now ALL IS ALMOST WELL!  at least- a lot better.. AND the prints are pretty well usable,

Both pictures: Voron 2.4 printing ABS at 280 degrees, Cura and Klipper setting for an 0.6mm nozzle. Left has an 0.8mm nozzle mounted, on the right is an 0.6mm nozzle mounted, Both nozzles are the high-flow ‘CHT’ Chinese nozzle versions with 3 internal flow channels.I quickly printed a couple of red ABS parts that I need for my big Voron 2.4R2-600.

Small remaining problem: fuzzy X- and Y- walls

I am still working on the blobby surface, as is shown in the above picture, the right positioned testcube.  Will try with some other filament! It is not the fuzzy skin option, by the way.  It might be related to the high temperature that I use with this particular ABS filament, depending on the application I go up to 280 degrees.  Best to try this first with PLA on 180-190 degrees, I guess.

Just got a so-called bright idea- Could it just be that I always had the temp for my extuder way too high and that such a high temp  due to the better nozzle with more flow- is no longer required?

That might explain why the prints are now perfect and shiny- But the X an Y walls are somewhat blurry.

That might be due to the high setting for the extruder ‘s temperature.

I could also try to set the print fan on, or at least higher than my usual 25% for ABS.

Then I can see what the impact is, or just lower the extruder temp from 285 to 250 for my red ABS.  Give it a shot.  Will let you know!

BTW, I never ever had printed this ABS with a shiny XY surface.  It was always matte, also at 285 degrees. Possibly the standard nozzle just required a higher temparature setting?  I have actually never heard of something like this, we’ll see.

The following 2 pictures show what the printresult was when I printed at 240 degrees, 0.6mm nozzle and all of the rest was unchanged…

The walls printed pretty nice, only the top is not what I want.  I will dig into that later.

The sudden stringing when using the high-flow nozzle is obviously one clear indication that I am searching in the right direction for solving my fuzzy walls now.  Previously, I never had stringing with the red ABS filament.  The stringing was also a lot less when printing this ABS testcube at 240 degrees instead of 285 deg.

I will do a last test with the option to smooth the Z-surface better, will show this here as well!  Could also be that the wall width for the top surface is set wrong, we’ll see.  Or the temp for final printing too low, or the part-fan a bit too much at 30%?

To mount my Voren 2.4 R2 600x600mm heated bed solidly on the 3 pieces of 2020 aluminium rails, I used an alternative way, instead of the ,ethod that is usually done.

The reason is that I am using TAP as Z-probe and I want the bed to be mounted as sturdy as possible.

To do this, I used M3 nuts in the rails under the heated bed, then a M6 washer and a copper M5 round threaded insert in which the M3 bolt can be mounted.

But- first I placed the heated bed on the 2020 rails and made small marks where the M3 nut needs to be placed EXACTLY!  Then, take the heated bed off and proceed.

The M5 threaded insert has a small cutaway ledge that just fits in the M6 washer, as is shown below:

This keeps the M5 copper threaded insert in place in the M6 washer.

Then, the M3 16mm long bolt threads in the nut that is placed in the 2020 aluminium rail.

After all these have been fitted, remove the M3 bolts, place the heated bed on the threaded inserts and put the M3 bolts loosely in, thread one by one a bit in, place all af the M3 bolts.

Position the heated bed square in the frame and tighten the M3 bolts.  You’re done!

Before building my 600x600x500 (XYZ) Voron 2.4 3d printer, I decided which electronics I would use.

The choice for the electronics’ hard- and firmware was the following:

1. Raspberry PI4B 2GB with Octoprint, Klipper
2. Octopus pro 1.01 F429 1MB motherboard with KLIPPER firmware
3. PICAN CANBUS adapter USB-CANBUS with Candlelight firmware
4. Mellow/Fly SB2040 PROplus CANBUS module for the toolhead with CANboot and Klipper firmware
5. BTT Knomi V2 in the Stealthburner toolhead
6. 10-LEDS arrangement with 8 minileds for the Voron LOGO and 2 RGB LEDS for lighting the nozzle of the Stealthburner

The Controller software is made as follows:

1. Raspberry PI, burned with RPI’s Debian Octoprint package through raspberry pi imager
2. Raspberry PI, through the PUTTY interface:
   1. installed KLIPPER on the PI
      1. git clone https://github.com/Klipper3d/klipper
      2. ./klipper/scripts/install-octopi.sh
   2. installed Canboot on the PI
      1. Burned Canboot on the Mellow/Fly SB2040 Proplus via the USB connection PI-SB2040
         1. install CanBoot on SB2040
      2. Made an auto-startfile for the Canbus in the PI and reboot
      3. Burned Klipper on the Mellow/Fly SB2040 Proplus via the Canbus interface PICAN-SB2040
      4. Made the klipper.bin file for the Octopus board within Klipper on the PI and then burned it as firmware.bin on a FAT-32 formatted microSdcard.  Then, put the microSD card in the OCTOPUS board to load the KLIPPER firmware
   3. installed a couple of supporting packages on the PI
      1. klipper-led_effect, used for the RGB LEDS on the Stealtburner

         1. cd ~
            git clone https://github.com/julianschill/klipper-led_effect.git
            cd klipper-led_effect
            ./install-led_effect.sh

      2. Moonraker, used for the BTT KNOMI
3. Updated all installed packages on the PI with sudo apt update and sudo apt upgrade commands, and git_pull commands,
4. Uploaded the required config files to the respective shared  Klipper//Moonraker config directory
   1. printer.cfg
   2. knomi.cfg
   3. stealthburner_leds.cfg
5. Reboot and check octoprint in the webpage.

NB: Instead of octoprint, you can also use Fluidd or Mainsail

The firmware and configs of this build is described HERE

For a specific printjob, I really need a large 3d printer.

The largest printsize I had before building this big Voron 2.4R2 printer is my 330x330x400mm  A30M.

But that only does PLA since it does not have an enclosure and the bed is not capable of anything over 70 deg C.

After a lot of searching I decided to build a new Voron 2.4 3d printer, sized 600 x 600 x 480 mm.  the main reason for this build is that I really like to build someting instead of buying something that I will want to change afterwards anyway.

The external size of the printer for this build is 760x760x750 which just fits my available space.

Since the door-opening (width) of my printing shop is only 700 mm, I can’t build the Voron 2.4 any larger than this, at least not at one of the sides. I do want the printer to be able to get out of the room when needed. I chose to keep the height of the externals within 700 mm. This means that the maximum Z-printing height will be ‘only’ 480 mm.  If the printer ever needs to go outside, the top hat will be removed and it needs to be tilted 90 degrees before getting it out.  But that’s fine, I don’t think the printer will be leaving very soon.

The build is continuing pretty fast. All electronics and printed parts are available.  The 2020 extrusions were delivered yesterday, so next week I will cut, drill and thread the extrusions and will start building the frame.

I evaluated to make a different decision for the build, though, on the Z-height versus the width OR depth of the build. I need only one side to be within 700mm and this might be the depth of the build. If I would choose to do this, the printable volume would then be 600mm width x 540mm depth x 600mm height.  That seems a lot better than 600x600x480.  BUT- In my experience of printing BIG parts, I never reached the top of my large printers, only ever needed the X and Y to be as large as possible. Make any sense?  In the end, I therefore stuck to the lesser Z-height since this will also fit well in my printer shop, because the shelves  difference in height makes the printer fit well, also if I want a top hat like in the picture below, on my old Voron 300.

 

As shown in the above pictures, I also installed chaotic lab’s CNC-machined TAP module with the OMRON sensor.  Since I will be using a bed with an X-Y of 600×600 mm, I expect that I will need a very good Z-sensor like hopefully the TAP will prove to be.

Alternatively, for a faster and more secure bed mesh I might want to put the IDM sensor in, at a later stage:

 

I first printed the extruder parts and all of the movement parts. I already had some leftover parts for the Z-axes from an earlier build.  For the gantry, I bought a complete kit of CNC machined aluminum parts.

 

For the time being, I will make the outside covers from thin triplex wood.  Only after all is well and I know the printer works perfect, i will decide how to move on.  My earlier model Voron 2-300 has all transparant acrylic covers and that is nice but always dirty from fumes.  I might go with aluminum dibond on all sides but the front. If I will use dibond, I will screw it directly on the 2020 profiles to get as much rigidity as possible.

I ordered and received a Tronxy 24 Volts 500 Watts 600×600 heated bed as is used in Tronxy’s large volume HEVO printer.  Thanx guys!

In this build, I will use 3 extrusion 2020 parts to mount this large bed in the Voron’s frame.  I intend to fit the bed including extrusions tiltable, hinged at the rear. In my view, there is no way I will ever reverse the printer once it is in place in my printer shop.  To reach the electronics, making a tilting bed is really the only solution.

The above concludes the build of the hardware.

The repair of the Hotend Canbus module, the build of the enclosure and so on will all be added as additional posts.

The firmware and configs is described in another post HERE

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