3D modeling, scanning and printing
Wolfang_GA200_4k_videocam_smallrig_20260318_V11G_jantec.nl
Please donate $1 to my paypal account if you use this original jantec.nl design -)
Printed on Voron 600 @ 0.3 mm LH and 0,8mm nozzle, transparant PETG. Hispeed in 1 hour at 100% infill, front down, brim 0.2 mm thick, 10mm wide. Supports everywhere in matrix mode @ 10mm wide, big gap 0.5mm top of Z and 1.2 mm on X/Y spacing. Temp 235 deg nozzle, 85 deg bed. 100% fan except for 1st 3 layers.
One of my very old DIY elktro-acoustic guiters had broken tuners on it. I did not want to order me new ones, since the mechanics were Ok, it was just the plastic covers that were all more or less torn up.
In Openscad, I designed the to be 3d-printed sleeves that fit around the metal tuner shafts.
acoustic_old_guitar_tuner_plastic _replacement_part_5.9mmID_10mmOD_30mmL_V3_20260305
I printed 6 sleeves in transparant PETG on the Voron 600 (0.8 mm nozzle, 0.3mmLH, 235deg nozzle//85deg bed.
No supports, although I did use a firm brim around the shaft. I printed the sleeves one at a time, in 7 minutes each.
The old shafts were tapped out of the metallic shafts. I used my vice and opened the vice’s jaws just enough to tap the shafts out of the sleeves.
Mounting the sleeves around the shafts is pretty easy, since the hole in the shafts and sleeves can be lined up due to the transparancy of the PETG material.
The shafts fit easily in the sleeves, although I used the vice to push the shaft in for the last 1-2 cm, due to the tight fit of the shaft in the inner sleeve’s recess that makes the sleeve follow the circular motion of the shafts when tuning the strings.
When installing the tuner sets, I used some vaseline around the plastic sleeves where they meet the holes in the tailstock wood so the sleeves don’t get stuck.
The process of de mounting and mounting the sleeves and the tuner sets is pretty self-expalinatory, please have a look at the below added photo’s!
BTW, I made 2 versions of the sleeves.
The one I used on my fast Voron600 is a bit wider inside (shaft diameter +0.4mm) .
This is needed due to the fact that little holes are always printed smaller on my Voron600 with the 0.8mm nozzle than designed.
If you want to print the sleeves with an accurate 3d printer, the exact fitting design is HERE: acoustic_old_guitar_tuner_plastic _replacement_part_5.6mmID_10mmOD_30mmL_V3_20260305
Made for old Peugeot J7/ 404 etc. and Citroën Traction Avant master brake cylinder, connects to a modern hose from a new type brake fluid’s supply reservoir. Printed in ABS, 100% infill. Put a rubber ring under the screw!
adapter_M16x1.5_MALE_to_external-nozzle_6mmOD_V2_20260212
CNC_ctrlbox_V21_DUET3_6HC_LCDPANEL_C)JANTEC.NL_20251115
CNC_ctrlbox_V21_DUET3_6HC_TOP_PART_C)JANTEC.NL_20251115
CNC_ctrlbox_V21_DUET3_6HC_REAR_PART_C)JANTEC.NL_20251115
CNC_ctrlbox_V21_DUET3_6HC_FRONT_PART_C)JANTEC.NL_20251115
CNC_ctrlbox_V21_DUET3_6HC_BOTTOM_PART_C)JANTEC.NL_20251115
CNC_ctrlbox_V21_DUET3_6HC_RIGHT_PART_C)JANTEC.NL_20251115
CNC_ctrlbox_V21_DUET3_6HC_LEFT_PART_C)JANTEC.NL_20251115
CNC_ctrlbox_V21_DUET3_6HC_allinonebox_C)JANTEC.NL_20251115
DOWNLOAD CNC_controller_box_6_parts_V2_C)JANTEC.NL_20251102
Please donate $1 to my paypal account if you use my original designs -)
THE CNC CONTROL BOX
Download the CNC controller box design file via the above link in 1 piece which will take around a day or more to print.
The CNC box design is available in 6 separate design STL parts that interlock very well and will have to be glued and (if you so desire-screwed) together.
The box is also available for DUET3 HERE
The tilted top panel houses a FysetC Duepanel 7 inch LCD module that interconnects to the FlyCDY2 or 3 ( and will also fit to the Duet3, obviously).
The box and panel also include holes for a 24-pins multiconnector on top, a panic button on top, an 80mm fan unit, a filtered power inlet unit (in my case, for 230V Europe standard) and 3 button holes on the tilted panel, as well as a small hole for a voltage reading unit. Any other required holes can best be done after printing. Just with normal tools, by using painters tape first to cause minimal collateral damage to the case.
All parts that can be screwed on or-in, can utilize M3 threaded inserts at the mounting points inside. The holes are supporting these. This is not done for thePSU (obviously, the M4 mounting bolts run through the case). The fan is mounted with M3 bolts from the outside through the case and secured with nuts against the fan’s body.
CNC CONTROL BOX DESIGN, PRINTABLE IN 6 INTERLOCKING PARTS
HOW TO PRINT
I always print tools and toolcases in ABS at 260-270 degrees, 100% fan and 100% infill. . Use minimal support of about 85% for these parts but always use maximal adhesion on the OUTSIDE only!
Also, set Cura to a shrinkage correction of 100.7%, due to ABS black shrinkage of 2.2 mm on the long side of the box. (The xSize should be 295 and this was measured 292.9 after being printed as full box)
For constructing the box from 4 individually printed parts, first connect the bottom parts without glue. Then, attach both the sides and screw in the front panel. Then, where needed file or sand off ledges so it all fits properly. Then, remount it all and let the glue find its way between the connecting overlapping ledges that connect the parts.
Print all parts with the vent openings down.
All parts will print best with support 85% AND adhesion outside only ON.
Print support with 85% angle support everywhere at 5%, so the M3threaded bus-supports will be printed well.
PRINT ORIENTATION EXAMPLE (Cura, VORON 2.4-600)
Please be aware that the 6-part design is developed with printing in mind, so the horizontal printing orientation as shown above is the only way to avoid overhangs in the interlocking ledges. This also goes for individual printing of each part.
I print this with an 0.8 mm nozzle at 0.4-0.6 mm layer height and a full print-run of all items at once still takes 1 1/2 day, at 100mms speed.
Therefore, I am now printing each part individually so I can manage it a lot better. No fun when you run suddenly out of filament..-)
Please donate $1 to my paypal account if you use my original designs -)
DOWNLOAD CNC_controller_box_6_parts_V2_C)JANTEC.NL_20251102
Please donate $1 to my paypal account if you use my original designs !
I designed this in Openscad and it took 2 days (off and on) to get it perfect. I started with a horizontal sun shade I designed earlier.
Please donate $1 to my paypal account if you use my original designs !
Tomtomrider550_sunshade_horizontal,_M_20251011V10
But I really needed a vertical one for usage on my motorbike.
So I changed the horizontal sun shade I had made earlier to a vertical one, which was very easy once I had the horizontal one really perfect. It took a couple of fitting trials before I had it good enough.
I printed this all on my hi-volume Voron600 with black ABS at 275 degrees, nozzle 0.8mm and layer height 0.4mm, 32 minutes to print the complete sun shade for my Tontom Rider 550. I always have the parts fan at 60% except 1st 3 layers and I print at 120mms, except 1st layer which is 20mms. Travel speed is 200 mms , rather low for this print at 0.4mmLH.
I use a rather high setting for Z-hop height at layer changes because this particulat ABS filament at this temp can give a small blob at the end of print lines and I don’t want the nozzle to jam into this at layer changes. Nor do I want to retract any more than 0.2mm since I don’t want any filament to get stuck in my so-called cold-end.
The sun shade fits snug around the Rider 550 but if you feel it is not tight enough, then print the sun shade at 99 % for the X and Y multiplier factors in your slicer.
And- yes, you should be able to print this STL file on any 3d printer with any filament and use your own preferred printer settings.
You will get much nicer prints when you use a 0.4 nozzle in your hotend and set it at 0.2mm layer height. It will then take around 2 hours + to print. Cheers!
Please donate $1 to my paypal account if you use my original designs !
UPDATED (nightly version)
Tomtomrider550_sunshade_vertical_L_20251011V10
Tomtomrider550_sunshade_vertical_XL_20251011V10
Nozzle: 265 °C, Bed: 110 °C
Object fan: 25% max from 5th layer, below this: 0%
I use almost only ABS for my professional prints with an 0.6 or 0.8 nozzle.
That is because it is cheap, makes very sturdy prints and it can withstand pretty high temperatures.
I use ABS mainly for car’s interior parts, garden goodies and so on.
For any stuff that gets in cantact with food, kids and so on I use PETG.
For any other prints and all multicolor prints I use PLA.
Since I use dedicated printers per type of filament, I hardly ever have clogs or ruïned prints.
Actually, there is not one standard for ABS settings. That’;s due to the fact that not all ABS on the market is really the same type.
However, I can give you some hints for different types of ABS 1.75 mm filament, after my extensive experience with those specific types of filament.
DO PRINT MY TESTPIECE PRIOR TO PRINTING ANY OBJECT and inspect the brim, and the sturdiness of the wall adhering, and the layer adhering.
DOWNLOAD JANTEC.NL’s TESTPRINT_tilted_raster_20250902V1_STL
If the print comes apart if you try to break it at low force like in the above picture, the print temp is too low. Same for the wings of the testpiece as for layer adherence.
If you observe a bubbly surface, your ABS is wet. It will probably not be able to save it. You can try to dry it in an oven or in a food dehydrator at 80 degrees C, for at least 10 hours. My experience is that this is a waste of time and energy. Just throw it away in the plastics recycle bin.
Sunlu has ABS filament that is shiny on the spool, and can be printed shiny at the right temperature. This filament is not very prone to warping.
Nozzle: 265 deg C
Bed: 120 deg C
Object fan: 30% max=regular, no object fan on first 4 layers
This ABS is also shiny, makes very sturdy prints and needs lower temp than general ABS. And- it requires a bit of object fan speed. The prints come out shiny. This type of ABS is not at all prone to warping, as far as I experienced.
Nozzle: 235 deg C
Bed: 90 deg C
Object fan: 60% max=regular, no object fan on first 4 layers
This is the most difficult to print matte red ABS(on the spool) and requires very high printtemp, and can’t handle any percentage of object fan. The prints come out matte when printed under 270 degrees and at 285 deg they are shiny. This type of ABS is very much prone to warping. This is likely a type of ABS without any additions to it.
Nozzle: 285 deg C
Bed: 120 deg C
Object fan: 0% max=regular, no object fan on first 4 layers
The system whereby the E3D tool changer determines the Z value of the four tools is fixed in the preset system files. This means that you perform a Z homing paper test for each tool to determine the deviation of each tool relative to T0, which is the leftmost tool. You enter the result in the config file as the Z-value for each tool, whereby I usually use “0” for T0 and the general Z-probe value, which I determine as the difference between the manual probe on the carriage and the nozzle height of T0.
First, you need to determine the Z deviation of T0 relative to the Z value of the carriage that picks up the tools. This is done by homing the bare carriage with a Z probe switch under the carriage to Z value = 0 on the bed.
Then you do a tool pickup from T0 and measure the height of T0 as the Z value. You then enter that value as the probe value in your config file. I find all this rather cumbersome, especially because everything changes when you change a nozzle, for example.
Below video: E3D toolchanger homing the carriage and do the tool pickup
Ideally, I would prefer to have each of the four tools, i.e. T0 to T3, home X, Y and Z every time a new object gets printed, and in this manner you can also just select any tool to do the bed mesh.
You then take those four Z values as the Z=0 value per tool, and you’re done. This works great with the Voron that I run with TAP Z-homing! It doesn’t matter what you do with your bed or your hot end, gantry, etc. It doesn’t matter because the nozzle is used as a mechanical Z-homing tip.
How the TAP function works on a Voron2.4 3D printer
And while I’m at it: why not make a self-searching tool changer? Roughly set it up with the XYZ coordinates per tool, the last part electronically with a guide system between the pick-up trolley and the tool, and the final fitting with the existing mechanical fitting.
Instead of determining exactly where each tool should be picked up and put away by trial and error, you could use an electronic guidance system to aim precisely at the right tool when it needs to be changed. No more hassle with X-Y settings and homing axes. Because if anything changes as a result of mechanical stress in the frame or due to small deviations from the X and Y homing, picking up and putting away tools will regularly go wrong.
One possible way to do this could be a passage LED/LASER system, such as those used at shop entrances.
.
To do this, you use a targeting laser, such as in a levelling system, or an infrared laser with a receiver.
This is placed on top of the X-axis on the moving toolhead and is aimed at the tools, at a 90-degree angle to the X-axis.
You then activate the correct tool you want to move to or pick up as the receiver.
With an X-sweep movement, you can make contact with the receiving tool and then move in a straight line towards the tool until you reach the pick-up point, which is specified in absolute Y value in the configuration file. Sounds like a great development!
And I would like to have a way to centre X, Y and Z of each tool nozzle in detail relative to the other tool nozzles, just like with my CNC machines:
With such a head alignment block, you can accurately determine the position of all axes on a CNC machine. First, you need to determine the approximate position of this block, with an accuracy of approximately 1 mm on the X and Y axes.
The alignment block is electrically insulated and works by making contact between the tool tip and the block.
How does homing with an alignment block work?
You programme a centring macro in G-code.
First, you temporarily set the motor power to the lowest possible value to avoid damage if anything is in the way of the moves to be made.
Just as when I regularly do a home-all, with this new method you also set the bed and the relevant tool nozzle to operating mode (e.g. bed at 70 degrees and nozzle at 180 degrees).
Then you do a normal XY homing, which in my case works with limit switches (or optical switches) at the start of the X and Y axes.
A Z-homing action is also necessary unless you do not want to remove the Z-move block that occurs when you have not first homed Z.
Then move the Z-axis up sufficiently to avoid hitting the block.
Next, move to the absolute XY position of the block.
When you are above the block with your tool, home your Z.
Then home on Z+0.3 both -X and +X, and in the middle of -X and +X home -Y and +Y.
The result is the exact position of the centre on the flat Z plane of the alignment block.
Because you know exactly what the position is in relation to the bed centre and from X0, Y0 and Z0, you can translate this directly into the macro and enter the Z0, X0 and Y0 values as absolute values.
It should be possible to home the E3D tool changer tools in this way as well, with Z using the TAP function and X and Y using electrical detection as described above for the CNC milling machines. We will see if and how this will work as a supplement to TAP-Z homing with the current X and Y microswitch homing on the X and Y axes.
The credo still seems to be: If the E3D tool changer is working, it’s best to leave it alone. That doesn’t suit me at all, because I often move my printers around. And that doesn’t always go well.
So I’m going to look into these issues and, if possible, build something!
In my small garden, a wall from my neighbour’s house extension has always felt a sort of in my way. I thought a lot about making this wall a bit more visually attractive and I came up with this:
I created a setup with impregnated wooden garden planks, which I splitted lenghtwise with my small portable sawmill. The wood carries around 20 small 3d-printed flower pots in all sort of colors and shapes.
In the flower pots, I put in a variety of small plants plants of which most of them can withstand the Dutch winter time, so I don’t need to replace all plants next year.
Also, I put in an automated solar-powered watering system that utilises my rain water gathering supply bins.
I am very happy with the result!
Below in this post I have gathered my flower pot designs for this wall, if you click the images, the STL file will be automatically downloaded to your device.
Cheers! Jan, 08-2025
square_plant_hanger_b100xd100xh110_V12_REVd_20250702 square_plant_hanger_b220xd80xh80_V12_REVd_20250701 square_plant_hanger_b80xd80xh100_V12_REVc_20250701 Diagonal_plant_hanger_T110_B90_H125_V2_20250701 Square_diagonally_placed_plant_hanger_TOP110_BOTT90_HEIGHT225_V1_20250630
Facets_semi_round_plant_hanger_TOP260_BOTT170_HEIGHT220_V15_20250628c
Please donate 1 US Dollar to my paypal account if you use (parts of) my developed materials so I can continue to share nice stuff for you to download
Please donate $1 to my paypal account if you use (parts of) my designs so I can continue to share nice stuff for you to download
Due to the DUET3 control board’s size, it does not fit into the previously developed CNC housing for a FLY_CDY board, so a lot of modifications had to be made. This resulted in the preliminary (V13) OBJ design which can be downloaded HERE (20250604)
This post has the published last version with tight fits for the DUET3 6HC motherboard, the 24V PSU and so on.
The dimensions of the newer DUET version are smaller than the peliminary DUET3 version. Now, the dimensions are made the same as the CNC controller box that I made earlier for the Mellow FLY CDY2 or -3 motherboard and DUET Workbee, DWC LCD controller from FysetC and so on.
By now, I also have a workable 7-part release for this DUET3 6HC CNC controller box.
To print this 7-part version, you will need a 3D printer that has a minimum 300 mm span width of it’s printbed.
I found it a lot easier to print the controller box in 7 separate parts than in one big print-run for just the box of around 1 1/2 day which uses 940 grams of filament.
The box and faceplate for DUET3 6HC is available as:
CNC_controller_box_simplified_1_part_V20_FINAL_MOTHER_DUET3_6HC_BOX_ONLY_C)JANTEC.NL_20251108
3. The last available STL for the FYSETC 7 inch DWC font panel is below:
Please donate $1 to my paypal account if you use my original designs -)
This is a tiny case for my XMAS LED projects, with RGB leds WS2811 or 2812B.
Please donate $1 to my paypal account if you use (parts of) my designs so I can continue to share nice stuff for you to download
download STL file small case Xiao nano&LDR&DS3231 with LDR hole 20241127 V14
Please donate $1 to my paypal account if you use (parts of) my designs so I can continue to share nice stuff for you to download
I also added a mini board with a clock chip, DS3231 to the XIAO USB-C board, and an LDR to make the RGB’s brighter when they are used during daylight conditions. An example Arduino code with clock function is HERE.
The LDR is mounted on the XIAO board’s top on A0 and GND, so it can be flush to the outer skin of the case through the dedicated LDR hole. Be aware to also add a 10K resistor between A0 and 3v3 since this board does not have programmable PULL-UP resistors.
The mini DS3231 clock board is connected to the XIAO’s pins A4 and A5, 3V3 and GND. There is also a small battery on the little clock board., so the time will always be available. I mounted the clock board so that the DS3231 chip is flat against the RP2040 chip. Then, the Data in and out of the clock board are then facing D4 and D5 of the RP2040. I used 2 Arduino pin headers to connect these data lines together. 3V3 aand GND are connected between the boards using thin wires.
Output to the LED’s is on pin 3 (D3). For the LEDS, also VCC and GND are required, either from the XIAO board’s VCC and GND pins or from the board’s 5V power supply +5V and GND connections. The LDR is mounted making use of a little stud, cut off from the tiny clock board since they have to be removed from the clock board anyway. This makes the LDR fit the box’s LDR hole perfectly.
For resetting an DR2040, a small hole is made to reach the little BOOT switch. This is sometimes required since the RP2040 can get bricked when a non-working void is uploaded. Push the boot butten when powering up, release the button and the RP2040 is in recovery status. Up[load a simple program and the RP2040 will resume normal functioning. Then, the normal COM port will work again an normal flashing is again possible.
The case has a snap-on lid that will also fixate the outlet cable for the RGB LED’s.
Please donate $1 to my paypal account if you use (parts of) my designs so I can continue to share nice stuff for you to download
Please donate $1 to my paypal account if you use (parts of) my designs so I can continue to do this
download STL file cableconnectorbox_30x14x14mmbox_3mmcable_V3_20241129
multicolor_open_elliptic_sheres_inner_hull_main_Jantec.nl_V5_20240731.STL multicolor_open_elliptic_sheres_inner_hull_sub_Jantec.nl_V5_20240731.STL multicolor_open_elliptic_sheres_mid_hull_main_Jantec.nl_V5_20240731.STL multicolor_open_elliptic_sheres_mid_hull_sub_Jantec.nl_V5_20240731.STL multicolor_open_elliptic_sheres_outer_hull_main_Jantec.nl_V5_20240731.STL multicolor_open_elliptic_sheres_outer_hull_sub_Jantec.nl_V5_20240731.STL
CFFFP_multicolor_open_elliptic_sheres_mid_hull_sub_Jantec.nl_V5_20240731 .3MF
(file voor (E3D) toolchanger met 4 x PLA en direct drive extruders)
Please donate $1 to my paypal account for using any of my designs so I can continue to do this
Import all 6 STL files into a slicer that is set for use with a 3d multicolor printer. Then, assign each ring to a specific color, merge and export the gcode file to printer or flie.
Example of the outer ring STL file:
New posts and articles will first be made available on our Dutch site https/jantec.nl as of July 1st, 2024.
We do try to translate as many posts as we can to English, but this is pretty time consuming, so some articles will likely be only available in Dutch.
BUT we do have a translator module running within the Dutch website.
You can jump to our Dutch site from the main menu, everywhere within the English site.
Our Dutch site has fairly good automatic translation to virtually all commonly used languages and this Dutch site ishould work automatically in the language that your browser uses.
Cheers, Jan Griffioen Amsterdam, Europe.
STL Download lamp_hood_12facets_whole_mini_dots_E27_20240621V13_PRUSA_MINI
Please donate $1 to my paypal account if you use (parts of) my designs so I can continue to do this
DOWNLOAD STL lamp_hood_all_versions_SMALL_shape96_round_pattern8_E27_20240622V15b2_PRUSA_MINI
Please donate $1 to my paypal account if you use (parts of) my designs so I can continue to do this
STL DOWNLOAD lamp_hood_all_versions_SMALL_round_E27_20240622V15b2_PRUSA_MINI
Please donate $1 to my paypal account if you use (parts of) my designs so I can continue to do this
STL DOWNLOAD lamp_hood_all_versions_SMALL_square_E27_20240622V15b2_PRUSA_MINI
Please donate $1 to my paypal account if you use (parts of) my designs so I can continue to do this
DOWNLOAD STL lamp_hood_all_versions_SMALL_PILLAR_24facets_pattern8_E27_20240623V15b3_PRUSA_MINI
Please donate $1 to my paypal account if you use (parts of) my designs so I can continue to do this
DOWNLOAD STL lamp_hood_oval_oval_holes_E27_20240621V14d_VORON_300
Please donate $1 to my paypal account if you use (parts of) my designs so I can continue to do this
DOWNLOAD STL lamp_hood_oval_oval_holes_E27_20240621V14d_PRUSA_MINI
Please donate $1 to my paypal account if you use (parts of) my designs so I can continue to do this
air exhaust VERY SHORT 121mm round for window klein achter beneden 375x42mm ventilation sleeve angled 20240607V15b DOWNLOAD STL
arco hose adapter 125mm for window klein 2nd_3rd floor 275x42mm sleeve screw_on 20240612V16cDOWNLOAD STL
Due to my careless behaviour I damaged the hotend’s heater Mosfet of my Voron 2.4’s Stealthburner toolhead’s PCB.
This toolhead PCB is a Mellow Fly SB2040 Pro plus. It has an accelerometer, a 2240 TMC, and it works with PT100 for the heater. It works very well through Canbus and my installed PICAN USB-interface on the RPI.
But- when I was installing another nozzle in the hotend, I shorted the ceramic heater cartidge and blew the heater Mosfet. See the next picture:
I ordered a new toolhead board and now I could tell the part number:
I ended up ordering 5 pieces of replacement B6066 Mosfet modules on Ali, and they were delivered yesterday, within 2 weeks.
I desoldered the defective one with my SMD heatgun, and ut a new one in with that same heatgun, works very well!!
So- what do you think is wrong with this ABS printed testcube after my switch from a standard 0.5 mm nozzle to an 0.6mm Chinese CHT high-flow nozzle?
I did not change anything other than the Curaslicer settings from 0.5mm to 0.6mm and also in Klipper, in the printer.cfg I also changed the setting from 0.5 to 0.6mm nozzle diameter.
Obviously, I also resliced the gcode before printing the testcubes.
It has been printed on my Voron 2.4R1- 300. with a nozzle as shown in the below picture:
These specific nozzles should be able to produce more flow since the input channel consists out of 3- instead of 1- little hole. The tip is – of course- only 1 hole.
After the failed print, I did the following:
Changed the ABS filament for a fresh pack. No change.
I checked the retraction settings in Curaslicer which were just fine, between 0.5 and 1mm.
Tested the gcode on my big Voron which also has an 0.6 nozzle and this worked just fine.
So- I checked the input of the filament for drag and it went very difficult. Apparantly something causes drag in the way from the enclosed filament box to the extruder.
Exchanged the filament sensor because it caused quite some drag and this made some difference in the printed result but not that much.
Checked the extruder and recalibrated this, no change needed. 50 mm extrusion was indeed exactly 50mm filament going in.
All seemed OK but I still got the same blobby outside on the printed testcube.
So- finally I unscrewed the nozzle and- guess what: It is an 0.8 mm nozzle which came in the same small plastic bag along with all of my ordered 0.6 mm nozzles. Should have checked this beforehand, obviously!
Put a new Chinese CHT 0.6 mm nozzle in from the bag and now ALL IS ALMOST WELL! at least- a lot better.. AND the prints are pretty well usable,
Both pictures: Voron 2.4 printing ABS at 280 degrees, Cura and Klipper setting for an 0.6mm nozzle. Left has an 0.8mm nozzle mounted, on the right is an 0.6mm nozzle mounted, Both nozzles are the high-flow ‘CHT’ Chinese nozzle versions with 3 internal flow channels.I quickly printed a couple of red ABS parts that I need for my big Voron 2.4R2-600.
I am still working on the blobby surface, as is shown in the above picture, the right positioned testcube. Will try with some other filament! It is not the fuzzy skin option, by the way. It might be related to the high temperature that I use with this particular ABS filament, depending on the application I go up to 280 degrees. Best to try this first with PLA on 180-190 degrees, I guess.
Just got a so-called bright idea- Could it just be that I always had the temp for my extuder way too high and that such a high temp due to the better nozzle with more flow- is no longer required?
That might explain why the prints are now perfect and shiny- But the X an Y walls are somewhat blurry.
That might be due to the high setting for the extruder ‘s temperature.
I could also try to set the print fan on, or at least higher than my usual 25% for ABS.
Then I can see what the impact is, or just lower the extruder temp from 285 to 250 for my red ABS. Give it a shot. Will let you know!
BTW, I never ever had printed this ABS with a shiny XY surface. It was always matte, also at 285 degrees. Possibly the standard nozzle just required a higher temparature setting? I have actually never heard of something like this, we’ll see.
The following 2 pictures show what the printresult was when I printed at 240 degrees, 0.6mm nozzle and all of the rest was unchanged…
The walls printed pretty nice, only the top is not what I want. I will dig into that later.
The sudden stringing when using the high-flow nozzle is obviously one clear indication that I am searching in the right direction for solving my fuzzy walls now. Previously, I never had stringing with the red ABS filament. The stringing was also a lot less when printing this ABS testcube at 240 degrees instead of 285 deg.
I will do a last test with the option to smooth the Z-surface better, will show this here as well! Could also be that the wall width for the top surface is set wrong, we’ll see. Or the temp for final printing too low, or the part-fan a bit too much at 30%?
To mount my Voren 2.4 R2 600x600mm heated bed solidly on the 3 pieces of 2020 aluminium rails, I used an alternative way, instead of the ,ethod that is usually done.
The reason is that I am using TAP as Z-probe and I want the bed to be mounted as sturdy as possible.
To do this, I used M3 nuts in the rails under the heated bed, then a M6 washer and a copper M5 round threaded insert in which the M3 bolt can be mounted.
But- first I placed the heated bed on the 2020 rails and made small marks where the M3 nut needs to be placed EXACTLY! Then, take the heated bed off and proceed.
The M5 threaded insert has a small cutaway ledge that just fits in the M6 washer, as is shown below:
This keeps the M5 copper threaded insert in place in the M6 washer.
Then, the M3 16mm long bolt threads in the nut that is placed in the 2020 aluminium rail.
After all these have been fitted, remove the M3 bolts, place the heated bed on the threaded inserts and put the M3 bolts loosely in, thread one by one a bit in, place all af the M3 bolts.
Position the heated bed square in the frame and tighten the M3 bolts. You’re done!
Before building my 600x600x500 (XYZ) Voron 2.4 3d printer, I decided which electronics I would use.
The choice for the electronics’ hard- and firmware was the following:
The Controller software is made as follows:
cd ~
git clone https://github.com/julianschill/klipper-led_effect.git
cd klipper-led_effect
./install-led_effect.shNB: Instead of octoprint, you can also use Fluidd or Mainsail
The firmware and configs of this build is described HERE
For a specific printjob, I really need a large 3d printer.
The largest printsize I had before building this big Voron 2.4R2 printer is my 330x330x400mm A30M.
But that only does PLA since it does not have an enclosure and the bed is not capable of anything over 70 deg C.
After a lot of searching I decided to build a new Voron 2.4 3d printer, sized 600 x 600 x 480 mm. the main reason for this build is that I really like to build someting instead of buying something that I will want to change afterwards anyway.
The external size of the printer for this build is 760x760x750 which just fits my available space.
Since the door-opening (width) of my printing shop is only 700 mm, I can’t build the Voron 2.4 any larger than this, at least not at one of the sides. I do want the printer to be able to get out of the room when needed. I chose to keep the height of the externals within 700 mm. This means that the maximum Z-printing height will be ‘only’ 480 mm. If the printer ever needs to go outside, the top hat will be removed and it needs to be tilted 90 degrees before getting it out. But that’s fine, I don’t think the printer will be leaving very soon.
The build is continuing pretty fast. All electronics and printed parts are available. The 2020 extrusions were delivered yesterday, so next week I will cut, drill and thread the extrusions and will start building the frame.
I evaluated to make a different decision for the build, though, on the Z-height versus the width OR depth of the build. I need only one side to be within 700mm and this might be the depth of the build. If I would choose to do this, the printable volume would then be 600mm width x 540mm depth x 600mm height. That seems a lot better than 600x600x480. BUT- In my experience of printing BIG parts, I never reached the top of my large printers, only ever needed the X and Y to be as large as possible. Make any sense? In the end, I therefore stuck to the lesser Z-height since this will also fit well in my printer shop, because the shelves difference in height makes the printer fit well, also if I want a top hat like in the picture below, on my old Voron 300.
As shown in the above pictures, I also installed chaotic lab’s CNC-machined TAP module with the OMRON sensor. Since I will be using a bed with an X-Y of 600×600 mm, I expect that I will need a very good Z-sensor like hopefully the TAP will prove to be.
Alternatively, for a faster and more secure bed mesh I might want to put the IDM sensor in, at a later stage:
I first printed the extruder parts and all of the movement parts. I already had some leftover parts for the Z-axes from an earlier build. For the gantry, I bought a complete kit of CNC machined aluminum parts.
For the time being, I will make the outside covers from thin triplex wood. Only after all is well and I know the printer works perfect, i will decide how to move on. My earlier model Voron 2-300 has all transparant acrylic covers and that is nice but always dirty from fumes. I might go with aluminum dibond on all sides but the front. If I will use dibond, I will screw it directly on the 2020 profiles to get as much rigidity as possible.
I ordered and received a Tronxy 24 Volts 500 Watts 600×600 heated bed as is used in Tronxy’s large volume HEVO printer. Thanx guys!
In this build, I will use 3 extrusion 2020 parts to mount this large bed in the Voron’s frame. I intend to fit the bed including extrusions tiltable, hinged at the rear. In my view, there is no way I will ever reverse the printer once it is in place in my printer shop. To reach the electronics, making a tilting bed is really the only solution.
The above concludes the build of the hardware.
The repair of the Hotend Canbus module, the build of the enclosure and so on will all be added as additional posts.
The firmware and configs is described in another post HERE
Video van WhatsApp op 2024-03-16 om 14.34.15_29d2041d Video van WhatsApp op 2024-03-16 om 14.33.45_8bd30d74 
If you are interested in purchasing these original jantec.nl designs, please email us at info@jantec.nl!
My brother owns a completely overhauled Chevrolet Camaro with power windows (I believe from 1969 or 1971) and asked if I could scan, improve and reproduce the armrests since these are both quite sloppy.
This type of Chevrolet Camaro is the only version that has these large armrests and they are a typical product from those days.
Manufactured from plastic and covered with some kind of latex.
Due to time and usage these armrests are both L and R broken between the actual armrest and the handle that is used to close the door.
This handle is at the front of the door and with these long and heavy doors some force is required to close the doors.
Therefore, we will try to modify the armrest with an additional handgrip in the large part of the armrest.
So- I used my Creality lizard scanner to scan one of the the original armrests and cut the design in 2 connectable parts. This makes it printable om my Voron300.
After 3d printing in ASA black, the parts got new leather upholstering.
After the right hand side was made to fit perfectly, we mirrored the design to produce the other armrest and handle for the left hand side as well.
The final result of the two 3dprinted parts joined on the right hand door
Scanning did produce a nice textured 3d mesh of the armrest BUT the scan proved to be inadequate when we mesured the length of the scan. This was 8.5 cm (more than 3 inch) shorter than the original armrest.
Also, the mounting holes were only visible as small round indents in the hull and due to the length decrease they were not at the correct position.
And-another problem occured due to the broken plastic inside the connection between the armrest and the handle: It was very difficult to scan the original armrest with the plate attached. The plate was however very needed because the handle needs to be fixated to get it at the right position for proper results with scanning.
Plus, the mounting spot that is at the end of the handle was severily damaged and the scan obviously also reproduced this ugly spot. I reworked this with meshmixer.
Fixing the above and making the 3 mounting holes into the design with a Cad/Cam program (I used both meshmixer and Openscad to get everything done) proved to be very time-consuming.
All in all- I always do my time-keeping when I do specific work- it took around 72 hours of my PC time to get this all done, up until the workable version of the STL files that were OK to be printed.
For scanning I use my Creality lizard scanner on my gaming laptop with built-in RT3060 GPU.
For editing, I use my newest ACER XPS13 laptop with thunderbolt, connected to my Razor external thunderbolt RT3060 graphics box and an external hi-res monitor.
3D printing is the next step that is very time consuming, but thankfully I only need to start the prints up and afterwards get the prints off the machines.
I made about 6 versions of both the designs and the printed parts before everything was OK.
The handle prints in around 6 hours on my twotrees sapphire pro at 100mm/s, 0.3 mm layer height with hi-temp ASA filament (0,6mm nozzle and BIQU high temp direct drive hotend installed).
The large armrest 387 mm long part prints in 20 hours at 0.3 mm layer height, ASA high-temp filament on my Voron 2.4 with a 0.5 mm nozzle.
The results are shown below:
fits regular beer bottles of 330cl
//length regular beer bottle of 330cc is 238mm
//diameter regular 330cc beer bottle is 61mm
The beer bottle box in 3×3 bottles version measures 238 mm deep and 197mm wide & high.
beer bottles 3×3 fridge rack 2023 04 20
And a revised version that can be printed without support:
beer bottles fridge rack with 45deg squared side holes 2023 04 20
And a short version where the bottlenecks will stick out a bit:
beer bottles SHORT fridge rack with 45deg squared side holes 2023 04 20
Tow bar ball cover 2-23 05 11 V1 Revd FREE STL DOWNLOAD
Printed this in red and white ABS on the Voron 2.4 at 260 degrees!
There is also a special version with facets:
Tow bar ball cover 2-23 05 11 V1 Reve facet shaped FREE DOWNLOAD
Tow bar ball cover Jimmy 2023 07 04 V1.1 facets
Tow bar ball peter cover 2023-16 06 12 V1 Facet_main FINAL size
OPEN curvedPipe for pipeconnector 4 into 1 FLAT 2023 05 01 V4 dev a.SCAD
OPEN curvedPipe for pipeconnector 4 into 1 FLAT 2023 05 01 V4 dev a.STL
Inside view of the hollow pipes AND the cutouts, which required some setting changes of the Openscad program, w.r.t. higher CSG limits
Video van WhatsApp op 2023-05-02 om 23.08.14
Pipeconnector 2 into 1 all tight_hollow 2023 05 03 V4 dev b STL download
Pipeconnector 3 into 1 all hollow 2023 05 26 V5 dev d 
In this version, the tea light holder has a lower open spherical shape so that it can be used with a regular wax tea light.
Further down are the 4 versions of the straight flared tea light holder that are also well suited for use with a tea light.
Of course, an electric tea light is also very suitable for use with these designs.
[ NB: A design for a holder for an electric tea light with a higher inward-facing rim is in the other article. That version is not suitable for a tea light with a flame, because a flame can distort the higher, more inward edge.]
Print these STL files on a suitable 3d-printer with heat-resistant, fairly transparant filament for best effect!
Tea light chandelear convex and sphere Jantec.nl 2023 04 18 V9 STL DOWNLOAD
Cylinder extra high
Tea light chandelear straight very high size Jantec.nl 2023 04 20 V2b STL DOWNLOAD
High
Tea light chandelear straight high size Jantec.nl 2023 04 20 V2b STL DOWNLOAD
Medium
Tea light chandelear straight medium size Jantec.nl 2023 04 20 V2b STL DOWNLOAD
Low
Tea light chandelear straight low size Jantec.nl 2023 04 20 V2b STL DOWNLOAD
This holder for an electric tea light with a top higher inward edge is not suitable for a tea light with a flame because a flame can distort the higher, more inward edge and may cause a fire hazard.
STL designs better suited for original tea lights with a flame are in the article: 5 free printable STL files for a table lamp with tea light
My dual carriage I3-bear based 3d printer is working very well.
On this page I share my latest configuration files, my build experiences like the used STL’s , schematics and so on.
Hope you enjoy!
Be aware that the tool settings in config.g are set including relative X, Y, Z values for this build so DO NOT put this in your slicer!
And- you need at least RRF3.3.1 for reprap FW and for DWC.
The sensorless homimg also requires knowledge of config settings and the good news is that the Duet2wifi has this all managed by the reprap firmware. No switches needed or complex jumper settings!
Tip for printing the parts: I used ABS for all parts. Use at least a printer with calibrated XYZ values for your specific filament.
Do a testcube first and apply any needed adjusting to your slicer’s settings like pre-shrinking settings of the endresult and so on.
If you don’t do this, then don’t start this build.
It is a prerequisite to get the magnetic carriage to deliver-and get the carriages from left and right of the X-axis.
Therefore the movement needs to be free of unneccessary friction.
And– if you use sensorless homing any additional friction on any sensorless homed axis might lead to unintended stalls.
I added a dripstop to the left and right hand sided X-carriages, made of some thin tinned plate.
It is positioned so, that a little tension is put on the nozzle tip in the parking position. It really works very well!
Please donate $1 to my paypal account if you use (parts of) my firmware developments so I can continue to share nice stuff for you to download
The config.g for this build and the Duet2wifi is HERE
The Sys directory for the dual carriage build and Duet2wifi is HERE
The Macros directory for the dual carriage build and Duet2wifi is HERE
The build plan for the 2040 extrusion frame is HERE
The following is available in the public domain as sharable content under the user-agreements as produced by its original authors::
The STL files for the X-axis carriages and carriages are HERE
All other needed STL files for the printer are HERE
The Duet’s case and 4.3 inch Paneldue’s case are HERE
The page of the working printer is HERE
The build plans for the electronics and Duet2wifi wiring schemes are HERE
FASTLED_clock_ALL_feed_V6_2023_01_22_FINAL_ONLY_CLOCK DOWNLOAD ARDUINO PROGRAM FILE
The latest arduino code WITH LDR is HERE:
The LDR is to be soldered between A0 and GND.
The data output is D5 and this must be connected to Data-in of the WS2812 (B) string. 5V and GND goes to the power source, which is also connected to the Arduino Nano.
The STL file for the star parts is HERE. Print this x5 in semi-transparant white.
The small Xmas- star measures 50cm in diameter from left- tip to right-tip. I printed it with glow in the dark ABS, white. It glows in very faint green, it is just enough to glow a little and keeps your eyes focused on the star when it is not lit.
If you make the star legs watertight with silicon sealant, the star can easily be attached to an outside wall, door or fence.
ou can use a long 3-wire cable between the Nano and the Xmas star to keep the electronics mounted inside the house and the star outside, or as I did: hang the star inside, in front of any window. I have the star hanging in my front door window, which gives amazing effect due to the non-transparant glass.
The programming can be altered to make the light effects behaviour any way you like. I usually have a non-stroboscopic fluent scene running.
You need to print 5 star points, feed the LEDs through them and then have the wires come out somewhere. You can glue the points together with hotglue or transparent silicone sealant after assembly and testing.
If you don’t have the Arduino IDE yet, download the app from the Microsoft website (Arduino IDE) nor from the Arduino cummunity forum.
Make sure you download my Arduino code and open it with the Arduino IDE APP. Probably the APP will have to move the arduino INO file to a new directory but that should do the trick. If not, start the Arduino app, open my code in notepad and copy/paste it as fully new code into Arduino: Replace the example code that automatically opens when you open the Arduino program/app with my code. Save it and rum it to see wether you need to add any library. For adding libraries, find general help in the Arduino forum. In my code, you can find the names of the required libraries.
In the Arduino IDE select the right microprocessor (Arduino Nano). Then select the correct processor version (large or small memory) and the old or new bootloader. These choices depend on the type of Nano you bought or still had lying around. Then you choose the right port (USB) for your Nano.
To test if you have connection between IDE and Nano , you can ask if the Arduino IDE can read your Nano. Only then you can start loading the Nano with the complicated program.
The Arduino programming file is HERE.
The latest arduino code WITH LDR is HERE:
The STL file for the big star is HERE.
Afterthougts: I also made circular designs, dual oval crossing designs and a lot of designs that I tied to existing shapes like a steel star, some Xmas animals and so on. The light design I made varies per application, A star typically requires a specific design due to its shape. A cicular design needs more of a scattered design and a straight string or a balcony-wrapped design all require specific patterns of LED programs.
I will also try to implement an auto-scanner in the setup part of the code to identify the number of LEDS that is used, since this is required to get good petterns to the string used. (set NUMPIXELS automatically)
The bow of the benchy , the white right part at the bottom sags a bit.
The solution was to set the bed temperature at 10 degrees lower.
So; I now start with 60 degrees and after the first layer the bed temp goes to 50 degrees.
In addition, I flipped the benchy 180 degrees so that the cool air on the left side cools the bow better. Now it turned out absolutely beautiful!
Printed with 0.2 mm layer height and 120 mm/s!
Not perfect yet but we’ll get there!
E3D toolchanger: Tuning the tool pickups with reprap global variables and macros assistance
E3D toolchanger upgrade: X-and Y- axis homing switches installing and configuring
Building E3D coreXY 4-toolchanger 3d printer
Toolhead stepper fault and solution
After I installed the homing switches for X and Y on the E3D toolchanger, I finally had a decent starting point to get the tools pickup and parking tuned.
Originally, I used sensorless homing but this caused changing offset values of the X- and Y positions of the machine. So the tools could not be picked up or brought home consistently after a reset.
Now, everything works fine and the X-Y values don’t change anymore after a reset.
What I did was to first make some macros for a one-off setting of the X and Y postion of the 4 Tools for the toolhead’s positioning. If you don’t do this, you have to change all X values manually in 8 macro’s every time you want to change the value of X.
This was done with a number of global variables. After defining these in a macro, they need to be called before using them. In Config.g, I made a reference to run the macro of the globals.g macro so it runs every time you boot the Duet.
In config.g, after the Tool definitions I added the M98 code to start the global definition of the used variables:
M98 P”0:/sys/globals.g” ; Make global variables in this globals.g macro
This macro file looks like this in my case and please be aware that the actual variables will differ per machine, but this may give you a starting point:
global T0_X_dock=-12.3 ; X-Parking position of Tool 0
global T0_Y_dock=225.2 ; Y-Parking position of Tool 0
global T1_X_dock=80 ; X-Parking position of Tool 1
global T1_Y_dock=225.9 ; Y-Parking position of Tool 1
global T2_X_dock=212 ; X-Parking position of Tool 2
global T2_Y_dock=226 ; Y-Parking position of Tool 2
global T3_X_dock=304.7 ; X-Parking position of Tool 3
global T3_Y_dock=225.4 ; Y-Parking position of Tool 3
The tfree 1-3and the tpre 1-3 files will then be like this for T0, and you can make the others by just fulling in T1 , T2 or T3 where it now states T0:
; tfree0.g
; called when tool 0 is freed
G91
G1 Z4 F1000
G90
;Purge nozzle
;M98 P”purge.g”
;Move In
G53 G1 X{global.T0_X_dock} Y150 F50000
G53 G1 X{global.T0_X_dock} Y200 F50000
G53 G1 X{global.T0_X_dock} Y220 F50000
;G53 G1 X{global.T0_X_dock} Y{global.T0_Y_dock} F1000
G53 G1 Y{global.T0_Y_dock} F1000
;Open Coupler
M98 P”Coupler – Unlock.g”
;fan off
M106 S0
;Move Out
G53 G1 {global.T0_X_dock} Y175 F50000
; tpre0.g
; called before tool 0 is selected
;Unlock Coupler
M98 P”Coupler – Unlock.g”
;Move to location
G1 X{global.T0_X_dock} Y200 F50000 ; was X-10.5
;Move in
G1 X{global.T0_X_dock} Y220 F50000
;Collect
;G1 X{global.T0_X_dock} Y229.2 F1000 ;was f2500
G1 Y{global.T0_Y_dock} F1000
;Close Coupler
M98 P”Coupler – Lock.g”
;WARNING! WARNING! WARNING! WARNING! WARNING! WARNING! WARNING! WARNING! WARNING! WARNING! WARNING! WARNING!
;if you are using non-standard length hotends ensure the bed is lowered enough BEFORE undocking the tool!
G91
G1 Z10 F1000
G90
;Move Out
G1 X{global.T0_X_dock} Y150 F10000; was 4000
And I made some macros for checking where the toolhead is positioned, right in front of the tools T0-T3:
; fit_T0.g
; called to fit the Tool just in front of the dock
G91
G1 Z4 F1000
G1 Y-10 F2000
G90
G53 G1 X150 Y100 F20000
;Move In
G53 G1 X{global.T0_X_dock} Y150 F10000
G53 G1 X{global.T0_X_dock} Y200 F10000
G53 G1 X{global.T0_X_dock} Y220 F10000
If you want to check wether you made the correct changes to globals.g, be aware that the new values in the globals.g variables macro will only be read when you reboot. [If you want to redefine the values in any other way without rebooting, you will need another type of call function.]
My E3D toolchanger appeared to have some small inconsistencies in homing X and Y.
This became apparant after I tried to tune the exact positions of the tools pickup, after having homed.
Every time it was tuned, it worked well and the next day it was just a bit off. Then I retuned it again, and after a day it was off again. Not a lot, but just 0.1 mm or a bit more. But it did cause problems with the toolchanges.
So- after reading a bit I found that others had this problem as well and produced a solution: Just put in a couple of good X- and Y homing switches!
I even found the to be printed 3d-parts for mounting these switches. Thanx for this, folks!
The switches are the same type as for the Z-switch.
I printed the mounts in PETG carbon on my Prusa mini and mounted both switches on the E3D toolchanger.
After this, I amended config. g and the homing files, please see the rest of my post for this:
CONFIG.G CHANGES
; Endstops
M574 X1 S1 P”xstop” ; X min active high endstop switch
M574 Y1 S1 P”ystop” ; Y min active high endstop switch
M574 C0 ; no C endstop
M574 Z0 P”nil” ; no Z endstop switch, free up Z endstop input as Z endstop switch. (I changed this part for correct working with RRF3.3+)
NEW HOMING FILES:
; homex.g
; called to home the x axis
M98 P”homey.g” ; Home Y always before homing X
G91 ; use relative positioning
G1 H2 Z3 F5000 ; lift Z 3mm
G1 H1 X-400 F15000 ; move left 400mm, stopping at the endstop
G1 X5 F15000 ; move away from end
G1 H1 X-400 F2000 ; move left 400mm, stopping at the endstop
G1 X2 F2000 ; move away from end
G1 H2 Z-3 F1200 ; lower Z
G90 ; back to absolute positioning
; homeall.g
; called to home all axes;
M98 P”homec.g” ; Home C (ToolHead)
M98 P”homex.g” ; Home X
M98 P”homez.g” ; Home Z
G1 X150 Y-49 Z20 F15000 ; Park
; homey.g
; called to home the Y axis
G91 ; use relative positioning
G1 H2 Z3 F5000 ; lift Z 3mm BED DOWN
G1 H1 Y-400 F15000 ; move to the front 400mm, stopping at the endstop
G1 Y5 F15000 ; move away from end
G1 H1 Y-400 F2000 ; move to the front 400mm, stopping at the endstop
G1 Y2 F2000 ; move away from end
G1 H2 Z-3 F1200 ; move Z BED UP
G90 ; back to absolute positioning
Z homing did not change and remains as is:
; homez.g
; called to home the Z axis
M98 P”Coupler – Unlock.g” ; Open Coupler
G91 ; Relative mode
G1 H2 Z5 F5000 ; Lower the bed
G90 ; back to absolute positioning
G1 X150 Y100 F50000 ; Position the endstop above the bed centre
M558 F1000 ; speed to 1000
G30 ; probe x 1
M558 F300 ; speed to 300
G30 ; probe x 1
The toolhead stepper of my E3D toolchanger system suddenly broke down.
The cause was a failed tool pickup move, due to which the rotating axle of the toolhead pickup system got blocked.
After exchanging the stepper I changed the Duet’s settings so the C-drive will not be able to generate too much torque.
This will prevent the last teethed wheel to break whenever the driven pickup axle gets blocked under extreme circumstances.
After opening the case of the failed reduction box, I discovered 1 broken tooth of the final gear.
I ordered me a new one, and mounted this. And I changed the C-drive’s settings to make use of the stall mechanism. It took some tweaking to get this to work properly. After all, picking up a tool must still work as this is the base intention.
All is OK again!
In the end, the solution to my intermittent on/off problem with my toolfans on the Hymera direct drives was extremely simple.
The picture shows the solution, as the Hymera stepper driver obviously interferes with the 40mm fans. The problem was that these fans 2,4,6 and 8 not always started spinning.
I tried to exchange the fans which did not help, tested the Voltage, current , settings and so on. Everything appeared to be OK.
Strangely enough, when testing the fan off the Hymera tool, even including the duct attached, everything woked fine. Just did not work when mounted on the Hymera.
Finally, Just trying some things, I pushed a thin steel plate (NOT RVS) in between the fan and the stepper motor, and now it always works, even at 5% PWM! Problem solved!
After testing at all tools, I made 4 better fitting thin plates and mounted these at the 4 tools and no problem exists anymore, ever since!
A big difference, the original object fan duct layout and the upgraded fan duct for the Hymera Direct Drive extruder/hotend combination!
Jantec.nl E3D toolchanger Hymera DD DOCK adapter and 3mm shifted adapter download
Tool T2 and T3 (3rd and 4th from left) are about 1.5 mm apart in the standard build, which means that T2’s tool fan can draw almost no air. With the new custom adapter, the right tool T3 moves 3 mm to the right, allowing the left tool T2 to once again draw air with the clear fan and cool T2’s heatsink from the Hymera Direct Drive extruder.
With this custom adapter, the respective tool moves up 3 mm, giving you an extra 3 mm of space compared to the left tool.
This makes just enough room for the tool fan of the left adjacent tool to cool the heatsink.
So place this adapter in the 2nd and 4th places with Tool 1 and 3.
This will save the first (T0) and 3rd tool (T2) in terms of cooling!
Downloads:
Jantec.nl E3D toolchanger Hymera DD DOCK adapter and 3mm shifted adapter
I am in the process of calibrating the tools, the overall settings and so on so I can move on with the rest of the tools.
In doing so, I always set all tools to settings that are in comparison to the first tool, T0.
This way, should anything change, I have a solid reference.
Tomorrow I will build and install the 2 other Hemera direct drive tools and possibly I can finally have my Benchy testpint made with all 4 Tools!
In the end, calibrating did not work very well and the solution is here:E3D toolchanger upgrade: X-and Y- axis homing switches installing and configuring and E3D toolchanger: Tuning the tool pickups with reprap global variables and macro’s assistance
4xHemera direct drive first prints
Tuning the tool pickups with reprap global variables
X-and Y- axis homing switches installing and configuring
Hymera fans 2, 4, 6 and 8 intermittent problem solved
E3D 4-toolchanger 3D printer updates
Custom E3D toolchanger Dock adapter plate
Calibrating E3D coreXY 4-toolchanger 3d printer
multicolor gadget open hollow multicolor 3d printer designs
Toolhead stepper fault and solution
June 2022: Last week I ordered the E3D toolchanger 3d printer kit and today I built it (almost completely).
The delivery went a bit awkward from England, because of the VAT and clearance fees you have to pay in NL.
Because my Voron 2.4 is fast, but could not print everything in one day, I have to assemble 3 more extruders.
Below you can see my shot with a Hemera direct drive extruder mounted on the right side.
To be able to follow everything on the video, I set all of the tool change speeds to 10x slower for a moment.
After the first day of test runs I swapped the original Duet2wifi board for a Chinese clone.
From the clone the wifi is impeccable, but the new updated wifi module on the original Duet2wifi is also with all the updates not working properly.
Every time I perform a remote reboot after a config change the wifi crashes and the board eventually connects fictitiously to IP address 255.255.255.255.
Searched all sites for help but found nothing.
Lack of experience can hardly be it, I have plenty of printers running fine on duet2wifi.
Just to be sure I have ordered an original Duet ethernet board, then I can convert the original board to duet2ethernet and I can at least still use it.
I ordered the version with 4 tools, the direct drive hemeras. I also want to work with soft filament.
The nice thing about this experimental printer is that everything works with Duet, and I have quite a bit of experience with that.
The E3D TC will be my first semi-pro multicolor printer.
I have an Ender3 pro with MMU2S, an A30M with Chimera dual nozzle and an I3BearV3 with dual magnetic carriages.
But out of these 3 systems there is no one that really makes perfect prints. They each have their specific qualities and features.
The Ender3/MMU2S can quickly print PLA and PETG with 5 colors but requires a filament spillage tower on the bed and is very cumbersome and slow to use.
TheA30M with Chimera is nice and fast and large (300x300x400mm) in build volume. But the print quality is reasonable at best. The dual nozzle Chimera with the nozzles at the same height hits with each movement just with the unused nozzle the tip of the filament deposited by the active extruder. This results in smudges and a less beautiful print. Yet I use this reasonably often, especially for quick test prints and at 0.2 0f even 0.3 mm layer height. That works fine.
First impressions:
I printed everything with orange ASA on the Voron 2.4 at 150mm/s and 0.2mm with the E3DV6 direct drive Voron extruder and a 0.4mm copper nozzle. Again, that went great!
By the way, there is something to note about this kit.
It is definitely not an ‘out of the box’ working system.
The hardware is outstanding, so are the manuals, better than anything I’ve ever seen.
The Duet and Duex combination is perfect and all the cables and screws, nuts, pins, gears and so on are nicely labeled and of fine quality.
The available config files, macro files and example print files are also great to start with.
And therein lies the problem for non-experts: All values are set to the best possible configuration.
And depending on your choices of extruder, bowden or no bowden and so on you have to make some adjustments here and there.
I had to recalibrate everything in terms of pickup Y values in the tool changer files before the tool was actually picked up and returned nicely.
In addition, it turned out that the tool pickup has to be adjusted very accurately to get the slot in and out of the extruder plates.
You have to understand how this is built, especially in the firmware.
Then you understand that the system has to reset to the start position every time at the start, and then the system makes that the reference point. Then you have to measure where 1) the open position is and 2) the locked position is. Those values must be entered as C values in the pickup and return macros.
What I also find difficult is that there are no sensors (yet) to check whether the tools are in use or parked.
That means that you can just give a command to do a homeall while there is still a tool hanging on the pickup.
I would like to know that because then you program around that.
And so there are some other things like no filament sensor on the tools, no LED lights on the pickup but I’ve already seen a handy bracket for that.
So a very nice and good system, worth its money and high quality material, design also beautiful and still much to tinker with. Thank goodness!
In any case I’m going to reuse my Z-homing files from the previously built mullti- extruder machines with Duet.
Because this E3D works with a pre-homing without the tools hanging from the pickup, you will have to calibrate a Tool at Z distance relative to the pickup value every now and then.
And also the mutual differences in X and Y of course, relative to Tool0.
I have some nice macro tinkering for that too!
Next week onwards!
LEES DIT ARTIKEL IN HET NEDERLANDS
In the above video you see all required parts for the elctronics. An arduino Nano, a time module LS3231 with battery back-up and a 4-parts ring each with 15 WS2812 LED’s that provide a 160mm 60 LED units clock. You can build it as an open built unit as shown above with wire strings or in a 3d printable slim case that I developed. See the pictures below.
For building this nice precise clock, you can use my design files for the housing on any 3d printer that has a horizontal bed size of at least 165x165mm.
Grab both the print STL’s . HERE. from the Prusa shared site where I uploaded these designs. (If the link breaks, search on the prusa site for ws2812 circular arduino clock).
OR get the STL file for the clock’s FRONT from my website HERE
AND get the STL file for the clock’s REAR from my website HERE
One STL is for the rear and includes the Nano box, the other is for the front face of the clock. Position the rear STL 180 degrees (so up goes down) in your slicer, so both the box and the LED housing are at Z-0 level, i.e. facing down at the same horizontal level. The front can best be printed with the flat side down. ABS is not recommended since it has less stiffness, but will probably also work. For me PETG or PLA works best.
Use white filament for the front part, the rear can be any color you like.
In the circle the 4 WS2812 LED segments are positioned in 1 full circle of about 160mm.
Once you have the rear electronics connected, the front will slide snug over it. No glue required. But the LED ring can best be glued in 4 places with a drop of hotglue to the base of the rear housing. Best to do this after you are sure everything works OK.
The LED parts are available on a.o. banggood , aliexpress and so on, search for 60LED circle WS2812 that has the 160 mm outer diameter.
Each LED represents a dot either for seconds, minutes or as hour indicator.
The colors detemine the function. Blue is also used as Quarter indicator with less intensity, to have a feeling of positioning for the other LEDS when it is dark.
Please look at the video above of the ‘open’ demo model to understand how it works.
Below you can find the Arduino code for the used Nano3, as-is. it works for me, and in the code you will also find all required electrical connections and the used Time module’s spec.
When connected to your PC, you can program the Arduino and via the serial interface you can afterwards change special settings of the clock like brightness, special quarter dimlit indicators, et cetera. it’s all in the code below.
The controls can be sent via a serial interface with the usb input of the Arduino, via a terminalprogram like YAT or with the Arduino IDE program’s interface.
The commands are:
Please donate $1 to my paypal account if you use (parts of) my developed materials so I can continue to share nice stuff for you to download
Hope you will have a good build!
Cheers,
jan
The Arduino code, to be used for programming the Arduino Nano3 is available at the bottom of this post as plain text to be imported in an empty arduino file (with copy and paste).
Take care to use only the libraries and time module that are specified in the code! The used time module is of the better generation that holds the time very well, also on standby.
When connecting the wires between the neopixel segments, the arduino and the time module, use a temperature-regulated soldering tool. Use a fan when you are soldering and don’t inhale the toxic gases while soldering.
The Arduino code is shown below, to be imported in Arduino in an .ino file. With Arduino, you must compile the code to get the Arduino flashed with the program. If you want to do this easier, you can make use of the binary file I already compiled for both Arduino nano versions (with full memory and with half memory). Both Arduino nano types will be OK to use for this build, but they each require specific firmware.
The last part of this post is the Arduino program for the clock:
/**
* NeoClock
*
* Clock using 60 WS2812B/Neopixel LEDs and DS3231 RTC
* Small changes and updates made by jan Griffioen, Amsterdam Europe 2018-2021
* Libraries needed:
* * Adafruit NeoPixel (Library Manager) – Phil Burgess / Paint Your Dragon for Adafruit Industries – LGPL3
* *
* * Arduino Timezone Library (https://github.com/JChristensen/Timezone) – Jack Christensen – CC-BY-SA
* * Time Library (https://github.com/PaulStoffregen/Time) – Paul Stoffregen, Michael Margolis – LGPL2.1
*/
#include <Adafruit_NeoPixel.h>
#ifdef __AVR__
#include <avr/power.h>
#endif
#if defined(ESP8266)
#include <pgmspace.h>
#else
#include <avr/pgmspace.h>
#endif
/* for software wire use below
#include <SoftwareWire.h> // must be included here so that Arduino library object file references work
#include <RtcDS3231.h>
SoftwareWire myWire(SDA, SCL);
RtcDS3231<SoftwareWire> Rtc(myWire);
for software wire use above */
/* for normal hardware wire use below */
#include <Wire.h> // must be included here so that Arduino library object file references work
#include <RtcDS3231.h>
RtcDS3231<TwoWire> Rtc(Wire);
/* for normal hardware wire use above */
#include <TimeLib.h> //http://www.arduino.cc/playground/Code/Time
#include <Timezone.h> //https://github.com/JChristensen/Timezone
#include <EEPROM.h>
//Central European Time (Frankfurt, Paris)
TimeChangeRule CEST = {“CEST”, Last, Sun, Mar, 2, 120}; //Central European Summer Time
TimeChangeRule CET = {“CET “, Last, Sun, Oct, 3, 60}; //Central European Standard Time
Timezone CE(CEST, CET);
TimeChangeRule *tcr; //pointer to the time change rule, use to get the TZ abbrev
time_t utc;
#define PIN 5
unsigned long lastMillis = millis();
byte dimmer = 0x88;
byte hmark = 0;
byte ohour=0;
byte ominute=0;
byte osecond=0;
boolean fader=true;
Adafruit_NeoPixel strip = Adafruit_NeoPixel(60, PIN, NEO_GRB + NEO_KHZ800);
void setup() {
Serial.begin(57600);
strip.begin();
strip.setBrightness(50);
// Some example procedures showing how to display to the pixels:
// colorWipe(strip.Color(255, 0, 0), 50); // Red
//colorWipe(strip.Color(0, 255, 0), 50); // Green
//colorWipe(strip.Color(0, 0, 255), 50); // Blue
//colorWipe(strip.Color(0, 0, 0, 255), 50); // White RGBW
// Send a theater pixel chase in…
//theaterChase(strip.Color(127, 127, 127), 50); // White
theaterChase(strip.Color(127, 0, 0), 50); // Red
//theaterChase(strip.Color(0, 0, 127), 50); // Blue
//rainbow(20);
rainbowCycle(2);
//theaterChaseRainbow(50);
strip.clear();
strip.show(); // Initialize all pixels to ‘off’
Rtc.Begin();
Rtc.Enable32kHzPin(false);
Rtc.SetSquareWavePin(DS3231SquareWavePin_ModeNone);
if (!Rtc.GetIsRunning())
{
Serial.println(“Rtc was not actively running, starting now”);
Rtc.SetIsRunning(true);
}
if (!Rtc.IsDateTimeValid())
{
// Common Cuases:
// 1) the battery on the device is low or even missing and the power line was disconnected
Serial.println(“Rtc lost confidence in the DateTime!”);
}
byte eechk = EEPROM.read(0);
if(eechk == 0xAA) { //Assume this is our config and not a fresh chip
dimmer = EEPROM.read(1);
hmark = EEPROM.read(2);
fader = EEPROM.read(3);
}
timeSync();
}
void calcTime(void) {
utc = now();
CE.toLocal(utc, &tcr);
ohour = hour(utc);
ominute = minute(utc);
if(osecond != second(utc)) {
osecond = second(utc);
lastMillis = millis();
if(ominute == 0 && osecond == 0) {
//Every hour
timeSync();
}
}
}
void addPixelColor(byte pixel, byte color, byte brightness) {
color *= 8;
uint32_t acolor = brightness;
acolor <<= color;
uint32_t ocolor = strip.getPixelColor(pixel);
ocolor |= acolor;
strip.setPixelColor(pixel, ocolor);
}
void drawClock(byte h, byte m, byte s) {
strip.clear();
addPixelColor(m, 1, dimmer);
if(hmark > 0) {
for(byte i = 0; i<12; i++) {
addPixelColor((5*i), 2, hmark);
}
}
h %= 12;
h *= 5;
h += (m/12);
addPixelColor(h, 2, dimmer);
// 0x RR GG BB
if(fader) {
byte dim_s1 = dimmer;
byte dim_s2 = 0;
byte px_s2 = s+1;
if(px_s2 >= 60) px_s2 = 0;
unsigned long curMillis = millis()-lastMillis;
if(curMillis < 250) {
dim_s2 = 0;
dim_s1 = dimmer;
}else{
dim_s2 = map(curMillis, 250, 1000, 0, dimmer);
dim_s1 = dimmer – map(curMillis, 250, 1000, 0, dimmer);
}
// Add blue low intensity dots for 12(0),3, 6 and 9 O’çlock to verify where the clock is positioned..
addPixelColor(15, 128, 10);
addPixelColor(30, 128, 10);
addPixelColor(45, 128, 10);
addPixelColor(0, 128, 40);
addPixelColor(s, 0, dim_s1);
addPixelColor(px_s2, 0, dim_s2);
}else{
addPixelColor(s, 0, dimmer);
}
// add a background color
// setBrightness(Serial.parseInt());
// uint16_t j;
// for(j=0; j<60; j++) { // 1 cycles of colors on wheel
// strip.setPixelColor(j, Wheel(((j * 256 / strip.numPixels()) + j) & 255));
// }
strip.show();
}
byte rounds = 0;
void loop() {
calcTime();
if(rounds++ > 100) {
Serial.print(ohour);
Serial.print(“:”);
Serial.print(ominute);
Serial.print(“:”);
Serial.print(osecond);
Serial.println(“(C)JG-2020”);
rounds = 0;
}
//rainbow(21);
if (osecond == 59){theaterChase(strip.Color(0, 0, 127), 40); }// Blue; }
//if (ominute == 59 AND osecond == 59){theaterChase(strip.Color(0, 127, 0), 50); }// Green}
//if (ohour == 11 AND ominute == 59 AND osecond == 59){theaterChase(strip.Color(127, 127, 0), 50); }// Green}
else {drawClock(ohour,ominute,osecond);}
delay(10);
chkSer();
}
void timeSync(void) {
RtcDateTime dt = Rtc.GetDateTime();
setTime(dt.Hour(),dt.Minute(),dt.Second(),dt.Day(),dt.Month(),dt.Year());
Serial.print(“Synced to: “);
Serial.print(dt.Year());
Serial.print(“-“);
Serial.print(dt.Month());
Serial.print(“-“);
Serial.print(dt.Day());
Serial.print(“-“);
Serial.print(dt.Hour());
Serial.print(“-“);
Serial.print(dt.Minute());
Serial.print(“-“);
Serial.println(dt.Second());
}
void timeSave(void) {
utc = now();
RtcDateTime store = RtcDateTime(year(utc), month(utc), day(utc), hour(utc), minute(utc), second(utc));
Rtc.SetDateTime(store);
Serial.print(“Synced to: “);
Serial.print(year(utc));
Serial.print(“-“);
Serial.print(month(utc));
Serial.print(“-“);
Serial.print(day(utc));
Serial.print(“-“);
Serial.print(hour(utc));
Serial.print(“-“);
Serial.print(minute(utc));
Serial.print(“-“);
Serial.println(second(utc));
}
void setBrightness(byte brightness) {
dimmer = brightness;
}
void chkSer(void) {
unsigned int iy;
byte im,id,iH,iM,iS;
if(!Serial.available()) return;
switch(Serial.read()) {
case ‘b’:
setBrightness(Serial.parseInt());
Serial.print(F(“Brightness changed to: “));
Serial.println(dimmer);
EEPROM.put(0, 0xAA);
EEPROM.put(1, dimmer);
break;
case ‘t’:
iy = Serial.parseInt();
im = Serial.parseInt();
id = Serial.parseInt();
iH = Serial.parseInt();
iM = Serial.parseInt();
iS = Serial.parseInt();
setTime(iH,iM,iS,id,im,iy);
Serial.println(F(“System time changed”));
break;
case ‘f’:
fader = false;
EEPROM.put(0, 0xAA);
EEPROM.put(3, 0);
Serial.println(F(“Fader off”));
break;
case ‘F’:
fader = true;
EEPROM.put(0, 0xAA);
EEPROM.put(3, 1);
Serial.println(F(“Fader on”));
break;
case ‘m’:
hmark = Serial.parseInt();
EEPROM.put(0, 0xAA);
EEPROM.put(2, hmark);
Serial.println(F(“HMark changed”));
break;
case ‘s’:
timeSync();
Serial.println(F(“Synced RTC to System”));
break;
case ‘S’:
timeSave();
Serial.println(F(“Synced System to RTC”));
break;
default:
Serial.println(‘?’);
}
}
// Fill the dots one after the other with a color
void colorWipe(uint32_t c, uint8_t wait) {
for(uint16_t i=0; i<strip.numPixels(); i++) {
strip.setPixelColor(i, c);
strip.show();
delay(wait);
}
}
void rainbow(uint8_t wait) {
uint16_t i, j;
for(j=0; j<256; j++) {
for(i=0; i<strip.numPixels(); i++) {
strip.setPixelColor(i, Wheel((i+j) & 25));//255
}
strip.show();
delay(wait);
}
}
// Slightly different, this makes the rainbow equally distributed throughout
void rainbowCycle(uint8_t wait) {
uint16_t i, j;
for(j=0; j<256*5; j++) { // 5 cycles of all colors on wheel
for(i=0; i< strip.numPixels(); i++) {
strip.setPixelColor(i, Wheel(((i * 256 / strip.numPixels()) + j) & 255));
}
strip.show();
delay(wait);
}
}
//Theatre-style crawling lights.
void theaterChase(uint32_t c, uint8_t wait) {
for (int j=0; j<4; j++) { //do 4 cycles of chasing
for (int q=0; q < 3; q++) {
for (uint16_t i=0; i < strip.numPixels(); i=i+3) {
strip.setPixelColor(i+q, c); //turn every third pixel on
}
strip.show();
delay(wait);
for (uint16_t i=0; i < strip.numPixels(); i=i+3) {
strip.setPixelColor(i+q, 0); //turn every third pixel off
}
}
}
}
//Theatre-style crawling lights with rainbow effect
void theaterChaseRainbow(uint8_t wait) {
for (int j=0; j < 256; j++) { // cycle all 256 colors in the wheel
for (int q=0; q < 3; q++) {
for (uint16_t i=0; i < strip.numPixels(); i=i+3) {
strip.setPixelColor(i+q, Wheel( (i+j) % 255)); //turn every third pixel on
}
strip.show();
delay(wait);
for (uint16_t i=0; i < strip.numPixels(); i=i+3) {
strip.setPixelColor(i+q, 0); //turn every third pixel off
}
}
}
}
// Input a value 0 to 255 to get a color value.
// The colours are a transition r – g – b – back to r.
uint32_t Wheel(byte WheelPos) {
WheelPos = 255 – WheelPos;
if(WheelPos < 85) {
return strip.Color(255 – WheelPos * 3, 0, WheelPos * 3);
}
if(WheelPos < 170) {
WheelPos -= 85;
return strip.Color(0, WheelPos * 3, 255 – WheelPos * 3);
}
WheelPos -= 170;
return strip.Color(WheelPos * 3, 255 – WheelPos * 3, 0);
}
Please donate $1 to my paypal account if you use (parts of) my developed materials so I can continue to share nice stuff for you to download
Click on the URL(s) to download the appropriate STL-file(s)
MINIMILL_BF16L CNC_Y_adapter direct 2022_07_25_V1_5-jantec.nl
MINIMILL_BF16L CNC_X_adapter direct drive 2022_07_25_V1_5-jantec.nl
MINIMILL_BF16L CNC_Z_adapter direct drive 2022_07_25_V1_5-jantec.nl
