Building me an EZ-belt DIY printer for long objects

I usually build my own 3d printers, usually based on existing designs.

The reason is that I just find it more fun in doing so.

So- I had a reason to get a printer that can print more lengtier objects than 350 millimeter, which is what I am now limited to.

After some research, I found 2 real alternatives.

The one is the Creality CR-30:


And the other is the Ideaformer IR3 V1:

Through my research I found that the Ideaformer originates from an EZ-belt open source design. Although the Ideaformer is a core XY printer and the Ender EZ belt re-uses the Z- and X-axes rollers on the EZ belt’s Y and X axes.

The EZ belt has become my choice for this build, anyway for the z-Bed.

I may initially start with the Ender setup for the XY extruder movement, but a coreXY may also be nice to have!

The original Ender EZ-belt
The original Ender EZ-belt

The Opensource Ender EZ Belt is originally based on an Ender3 pro, BUT I will build mine from scratch, since I have already rebuilt my Ender3 into something else and I am very happy with it. (Parallel Z-drives with top belt, direct drive extruder, upgraded 32 bits board, upgraded PSU, connected to MMU2 and so on.

DOWNLOAD the printed parts for the Ender EZ-belt HERE: ender-ez-belt-3d-printer-conversion-model_files

So- I am now in the process of sourcing the components and 3d printing the required parts!

All of the hardware like frame parts, X-axis side plates, extruder, hotend, motherboard, steppers, teethed wheels and -belts, bearings, nuts and bolts are available in my shop.

I will go with a Duet2wifi board, since this is known to me and I like the Duet’s web interface a lot.  An ESP32 camera will be added to the build and this will also be integrated into the Duet’s Web interface, as with all my other printers.

As with my rebuilt Ender3, I will move the Power Supply from the side to a plave UNDER the printer, behind the motherboard which will be in the same place as with the Ender 3, also under the heated bed.


I will need to source a good 24V PSU but I may go with an external one for this build, to start with.

Both the required 8mm rods will be sourced as well (1x340mm and 1x 240mm) .

The belt and corresponding heated have veen ordered from Ali, I chose an Ideaformer belt , 320mm wide, 1.3 mm thick and a perimeter of 1180mm.


Free STL download fridge beer bottle organizer by



Rear/top view

Front view

fits regular beer bottles of 330cl

//length regular beer bottle of 330cc is 238mm
//diameter regular 330cc beer bottle is 61mm

The beer bottle box in 3×3 bottles version measures 238 mm deep and  197mm wide & high.

beer bottles 3×3 fridge rack 2023 04 20


And a revised version that can be printed without support:

beer bottles fridge rack with 45deg squared side holes 2023 04 20


And a short version where the bottlenecks will stick out a bit:


beer bottles SHORT fridge rack with 45deg squared side holes 2023 04 20

Joining multiple hollow bending tubes in Openscad with curvedPipe integrated libs

OPEN curvedPipe for pipeconnector 4 into 1 FLAT 2023 05 01 V4 dev a.SCAD

OPEN curvedPipe for pipeconnector 4 into 1 FLAT 2023 05 01 V4 dev a.STL


Inside view of the hollow pipes AND the cutouts, which required some setting changes of the Openscad program, w.r.t. higher CSG limits

Video van WhatsApp op 2023-05-02 om 23.08.14

Pipeconnector 2 into 1 all tight_hollow 2023 05 03 V4 dev b STL download


Pipeconnector 3 into 1 all hollow 2023 05 26 V5 dev d 


5 free printable stl files for original tabletop tealight holders

In this version, the tea light holder has a lower open spherical shape so that it can be used with a regular wax tea light.

Further down are the 4 versions of the straight flared tea light holder that are also well suited for use with a tea light.

Of course, an electric tea light is also very suitable for use with these designs.

[ NB: A design for a holder for an electric tea light with a higher inward-facing rim is in the other article. That version is not suitable for a tea light with a flame, because a flame can distort the higher, more inward edge.]

Print these STL files on a  suitable 3d-printer with heat-resistant,  fairly transparant filament for best effect!

Tea light chandelear convex and sphere 2023 04 18 V9 STL DOWNLOAD



Cylinder  extra high

Tea light chandelear straight very high size 2023 04 20 V2b STL DOWNLOAD



Tea light chandelear straight high size 2023 04 20 V2b STL DOWNLOAD



Tea light chandelear straight medium size 2023 04 20 V2b STL DOWNLOAD



Tea light chandelear straight low size 2023 04 20 V2b STL DOWNLOAD 

printable stl file for battery-operated tea light holder

Tea light chandelear simple convex and less shaved top of thinned sphere 2023 04 16 V8 STL DOWNLOAD



This holder for an electric tea light with a top higher inward edge is not suitable for a tea light with a flame because a flame can distort the higher, more inward edge and may cause a fire hazard.

STL designs better suited for original tea lights with a flame are in the article: 5 free printable STL files for a table lamp with tea light


Dual magnetic parking extruders I3 Bear Duet2wifi build and Config files

My dual carriage I3-bear based 3d printer is working very well.

On this page I share my latest configuration files, my build experiences like the used STL’s , schematics and so on. 

Hope you enjoy!

Be aware that the tool settings in config.g are set including relative X, Y, Z values for this build so DO NOT put this in your slicer! 

And- you need at least RRF3.3.1 for reprap FW and for DWC. 

The sensorless homimg also requires knowledge of config settings and the good news is that the Duet2wifi has this all managed by the reprap firmware.  No switches needed or complex jumper settings!

Tip for printing the parts: I used ABS for all parts. Use at least a printer with calibrated XYZ values for your specific filament. 

Do a testcube first and apply any needed adjusting to your slicer’s settings like pre-shrinking settings of the endresult and so on. 

If you don’t do this, then don’t start this build. 

It is a prerequisite to get the magnetic carriage to deliver-and get the carriages from left and right of the X-axis. 

Therefore the movement needs to be free of unneccessary friction. 

And– if you use sensorless homing any additional friction on any sensorless homed axis might lead to unintended stalls.

I added a dripstop to the left and right hand sided X-carriages, made of some thin tinned plate.

It is positioned so, that a little tension is put on the nozzle tip in the parking position. It really works very well!

The config.g for this build and the Duet2wifi is HERE

The Sys directory for the dual carriage build and Duet2wifi is HERE

The Macros directory for the dual carriage build and Duet2wifi is HERE

The build plan for the 2040 extrusion frame is HERE

2.1 version Prusa i3 MK3/MK3S Bear Z Extended 459mm Black kit 2040  Extrusion Anodized After Cut Prusa i3 MK3 Bear Profile Frame|3D Printer  Parts & Accessories| - AliExpress

The STL files for the X-axis carriages and carriages are HERE

All other needed STL files for the printer are HERE

The Duet’s case and 4.3 inch Paneldue’s case are HERE

The page of the working printer is HERE

The build plans for the electronics and Duet2wifi wiring schemes are HERE

Please donate $1 to my paypal account if you use (parts of) my developed materials so I can continue to share nice stuff for you to download


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