Replacing the heater mosfet B6066 of a Mellow Fly SB2040 pro plus Canbus 3d printer’s Voron Stealthburner toolhead PCB

Due to my careless behaviour I damaged the hotend’s heater Mosfet of my Voron 2.4’s Stealthburner toolhead’s PCB.

This toolhead PCB is a Mellow Fly SB2040 Pro plus. It has an accelerometer, a 2240 TMC, and it works with PT100 for the heater. It  works very well through Canbus and my installed PICAN USB-interface on the RPI.

But- when I was installing another nozzle in the hotend, I shorted the ceramic heater cartidge and blew the heater Mosfet. See the next picture:

I ordered a new toolhead board and now I could tell the part number:

I ended up ordering 5 pieces of replacement B6066 Mosfet modules on Ali, and they were delivered yesterday, within 2 weeks.

I desoldered the defective one with my SMD heatgun, and ut a new one in with that same heatgun, works very well!!

Switched to a Chinese high-flow CHT nozzle – Now, what is wrong with this ABS printed test cube?

So- what do you think is wrong with this ABS printed testcube after my switch from a standard 0.5 mm nozzle to an 0.6mm Chinese CHT high-flow nozzle?

I did not change anything other than the Curaslicer settings from 0.5mm to 0.6mm and also in Klipper, in the printer.cfg I also changed the setting from 0.5 to 0.6mm nozzle diameter.

Obviously, I also resliced the gcode before printing the testcubes.

It has been printed on my Voron 2.4R1- 300. with a nozzle as shown in the below picture:

These specific nozzles should be able to produce more flow since the input channel consists out of 3- instead of 1- little hole.  The tip is – of course- only 1 hole.


After the failed print, I did the following:

Changed the ABS filament for a fresh pack. No change.

I checked the retraction settings in Curaslicer which were just fine, between 0.5 and 1mm.

Tested the gcode on my big Voron which also has an 0.6 nozzle and this worked just fine.

So- I checked the input of the filament for drag and it went very difficult.  Apparantly something causes drag in the way from the enclosed filament box to the extruder.

Exchanged the filament sensor because it caused quite some drag and this made some difference in the printed result but not that much.

Checked the extruder and recalibrated this, no change needed.  50 mm extrusion was indeed exactly 50mm filament going in.

All seemed OK but I still got the same blobby outside on the printed testcube.

So- finally I unscrewed the nozzle and- guess what: It is an 0.8 mm nozzle which came in the same small plastic bag along with all of my ordered 0.6 mm nozzles.  Should have checked this beforehand, obviously!

Put a new Chinese CHT 0.6 mm nozzle in from the bag and now ALL IS ALMOST WELL!  at least- a lot better.. AND the prints are pretty well usable,

Both pictures: Voron 2.4 printing ABS at 280 degrees, Cura and Klipper setting for an 0.6mm nozzle. Left has an 0.8mm nozzle mounted, on the right is an 0.6mm nozzle mounted, Both nozzles are the high-flow ‘CHT’ Chinese nozzle versions with 3 internal flow channels.I quickly printed a couple of red ABS parts that I need for my big Voron 2.4R2-600.

Small remaining problem: fuzzy X- and Y- walls

I am still working on the blobby surface, as is shown in the above picture, the right positioned testcube.  Will try with some other filament! It is not the fuzzy skin option, by the way.  It might be related to the high temperature that I use with this particular ABS filament, depending on the application I go up to 280 degrees.  Best to try this first with PLA on 180-190 degrees, I guess.

Just got a so-called bright idea- Could it just be that I always had the temp for my extuder way too high and that such a high temp  due to the better nozzle with more flow- is no longer required?

That might explain why the prints are now perfect and shiny- But the X an Y walls are somewhat blurry.

That might be due to the high setting for the extruder ‘s temperature.

I could also try to set the print fan on, or at least higher than my usual 25% for ABS.

Then I can see what the impact is, or just lower the extruder temp from 285 to 250 for my red ABS.  Give it a shot.  Will let you know!

BTW, I never ever had printed this ABS with a shiny XY surface.  It was always matte, also at 285 degrees. Possibly the standard nozzle just required a higher temparature setting?  I have actually never heard of something like this, we’ll see.

The following 2 pictures show what the printresult was when I printed at 240 degrees, 0.6mm nozzle and all of the rest was unchanged…

The walls printed pretty nice, only the top is not what I want.  I will dig into that later.

The sudden stringing when using the high-flow nozzle is obviously one clear indication that I am searching in the right direction for solving my fuzzy walls now.  Previously, I never had stringing with the red ABS filament.  The stringing was also a lot less when printing this ABS testcube at 240 degrees instead of 285 deg.

I will do a last test with the option to smooth the Z-surface better, will show this here as well!  Could also be that the wall width for the top surface is set wrong, we’ll see.  Or the temp for final printing too low, or the part-fan a bit too much at 30%?

Heated bed alternative fixture for Voron 2.4 3d printer

To mount my Voren 2.4 R2 600x600mm heated bed solidly on the 3 pieces of 2020 aluminium rails, I used an alternative way, instead of the ,ethod that is usually done.

The reason is that I am using TAP as Z-probe and I want the bed to be mounted as sturdy as possible.

To do this, I used M3 nuts in the rails under the heated bed, then a M6 washer and a copper M5 round threaded insert in which the M3 bolt can be mounted.

But- first I placed the heated bed on the 2020 rails and made small marks where the M3 nut needs to be placed EXACTLY!  Then, take the heated bed off and proceed.

The M5 threaded insert has a small cutaway ledge that just fits in the M6 washer, as is shown below:

This keeps the M5 copper threaded insert in place in the M6 washer.

Then, the M3 16mm long bolt threads in the nut that is placed in the 2020 aluminium rail.

After all these have been fitted, remove the M3 bolts, place the heated bed on the threaded inserts and put the M3 bolts loosely in, thread one by one a bit in, place all af the M3 bolts.

Position the heated bed square in the frame and tighten the M3 bolts.  You’re done!

This shows the fixture under the 4mm thick 24V 500 Watt heated bed. If the bed gets too much warped, I will buy a 600×600 mm 8mm aluminium plate for the bed and get a 230Volts silicon heater under it…
For reference, the original fixture with a reversed set-screw under the heated bed: also very sturdy!

Commisioning my VORON2.4 600 3d printer with OCTOPRINT, KLIPPER, CANBUS FLY SB2040 PROplus toolhead module + KNOMI V2, OCTOPUS Pro F429 motherboard and PICAN module

Before building my 600x600x500 (XYZ) Voron 2.4 3d printer, I decided which electronics I would use.

The choice for the electronics’ hard- and firmware was the following:

  1. Raspberry PI4B 2GB with Octoprint, Klipper
  2. Octopus pro 1.01 F429 1MB motherboard with KLIPPER firmware
  3. PICAN CANBUS adapter USB-CANBUS with Candlelight firmware
  4. Mellow/Fly SB2040 PROplus CANBUS module for the toolhead with CANboot and Klipper firmware
  5. BTT Knomi V2 in the Stealthburner toolhead
  6. 10-LEDS arrangement with 8 minileds for the Voron LOGO and 2 RGB LEDS for lighting the nozzle of the Stealthburner

Fitting the parts on the Stealthburner, it also has the TAP Z-sensor from ChaoticLab. When fitting, I did not yet have the KNOMI front on the Stealthburner.

The Controller software is made as follows:

  1. Raspberry PI, burned with RPI’s Debian Octoprint package through raspberry pi imager
  2. Raspberry PI, through the PUTTY interface:
    1. installed KLIPPER on the PI
      1. git clone
      2. ./klipper/scripts/
    2. installed Canboot on the PI
      1. Burned Canboot on the Mellow/Fly SB2040 Proplus via the USB connection PI-SB2040
        1. install CanBoot on SB2040
      2. Made an auto-startfile for the Canbus in the PI and reboot
      3. Burned Klipper on the Mellow/Fly SB2040 Proplus via the Canbus interface PICAN-SB2040
      4. Made the klipper.bin file for the Octopus board within Klipper on the PI and then burned it as firmware.bin on a FAT-32 formatted microSdcard.  Then, put the microSD card in the OCTOPUS board to load the KLIPPER firmware
    3. installed a couple of supporting packages on the PI
      1. klipper-led_effect, used for the RGB LEDS on the Stealtburner
        1. cd ~
          git clone
          cd klipper-led_effect
      2. Moonraker, used for the BTT KNOMI
  3. Updated all installed packages on the PI with sudo apt update and sudo apt upgrade commands, and git_pull commands,
  4. Uploaded the required config files to the respective shared  Klipper//Moonraker config directory
    1. printer.cfg
    2. knomi.cfg
    3. stealthburner_leds.cfg
  5. Reboot and check octoprint in the webpage.

NB: Instead of octoprint, you can also use Fluidd or Mainsail

Building a BIG Voron 2.4 R2 CANBUS 600mm 3d printer

The firmware and configs of this build is described HERE

For a specific printjob, I really need a large 3d printer.

The largest printsize I had before building this big Voron 2.4R2 printer is my 330x330x400mm  A30M.

But that only does PLA since it does not have an enclosure and the bed is not capable of anything over 70 deg C.

After a lot of searching I decided to build a new Voron 2.4 3d printer, sized 600 x 600 x 480 mm.  the main reason for this build is that I really like to build someting instead of buying something that I will want to change afterwards anyway.

The external size of the printer for this build is 760x760x750 which just fits my available space.

Since the door-opening (width) of my printing shop is only 700 mm, I can’t build the Voron 2.4 any larger than this, at least not at one of the sides. I do want the printer to be able to get out of the room when needed. I chose to keep the height of the externals within 700 mm. This means that the maximum Z-printing height will be ‘only’ 480 mm.  If the printer ever needs to go outside, the top hat will be removed and it needs to be tilted 90 degrees before getting it out.  But that’s fine, I don’t think the printer will be leaving very soon.

The build is continuing pretty fast. All electronics and printed parts are available.  The 2020 extrusions were delivered yesterday, so next week I will cut, drill and thread the extrusions and will start building the frame.

Octopus pro F429 (more memory for using with Klipper)
Mellow Fly SB2040 V2 PROplus to put in the Stealthburner with all you need in one small package: TMC2240 driver. hotend MOSFET driver and temp reader, fan drivers, PT100 converter, RP2040 processor, multiple connections for endstops, RGB driver for LEDs, and on top of all there is also an internal accellerometer connected to the RP2040’s SPI pins!
The PICAN USB to CANBUS interface I use. It already has Candlelight firmware installed when bought from

I evaluated to make a different decision for the build, though, on the Z-height versus the width OR depth of the build. I need only one side to be within 700mm and this might be the depth of the build. If I would choose to do this, the printable volume would then be 600mm width x 540mm depth x 600mm height.  That seems a lot better than 600x600x480.  BUT- In my experience of printing BIG parts, I never reached the top of my large printers, only ever needed the X and Y to be as large as possible. Make any sense?  In the end, I therefore stuck to the lesser Z-height since this will also fit well in my printer shop, because the shelves  difference in height makes the printer fit well, also if I want a top hat like in the picture below, on my old Voron 300.

My Voron 300 with the top head mounted. This gives the required clearing when printing higher objects.


The stealthburner extruder including hotend, although not yet installed, and the SB2040pro CANBUS module. The KNOMI module is also installed later.

As shown in the above pictures, I also installed chaotic lab’s CNC-machined TAP module with the OMRON sensor.  Since I will be using a bed with an X-Y of 600×600 mm, I expect that I will need a very good Z-sensor like hopefully the TAP will prove to be.

Alternatively, for a faster and more secure bed mesh I might want to put the IDM sensor in, at a later stage:


I first printed the extruder parts and all of the movement parts. I already had some leftover parts for the Z-axes from an earlier build.  For the gantry, I bought a complete kit of CNC machined aluminum parts.

aluminum CNC parts for the gantry
aluminum back plate for the Clockwork extruder, the top part of the stealthburner extruder.


For the time being, I will make the outside covers from thin triplex wood.  Only after all is well and I know the printer works perfect, i will decide how to move on.  My earlier model Voron 2-300 has all transparant acrylic covers and that is nice but always dirty from fumes.  I might go with aluminum dibond on all sides but the front. If I will use dibond, I will screw it directly on the 2020 profiles to get as much rigidity as possible.

I ordered and received a Tronxy 24 Volts 500 Watts 600×600 heated bed as is used in Tronxy’s large volume HEVO printer.  Thanx guys!

In this build, I will use 3 extrusion 2020 parts to mount this large bed in the Voron’s frame.  I intend to fit the bed including extrusions tiltable, hinged at the rear. In my view, there is no way I will ever reverse the printer once it is in place in my printer shop.  To reach the electronics, making a tilting bed is really the only solution.

Totally working, including the Mellow Fly SB2040 PRO with TMC2240 (with SPI and with DIAG1 on pin sb2040:gpio8!!!).
I never want to turn the printer over, besides, that is not possible at all in the available space. That’s why I placed the din-rails with brackets between 2 pieces 2020 and all hardware accessible from above, ,with hinged hotbed.
The hinged bed with Tronxy’s 24 V 500 Watt hotbed attached…
Cables made to length, new connectors attached and everything made neat.
I forgot to switch off the power from my Voron 600 printer, when changing the nozzle. I accidentally shortcircuited the heater in the hotend and the result is shown in the above picture. The heater’s mosFET is toast. I have ordered a new SB2040V2proplus, and when it arrives I will see which type of MosFet I need to order for the repair…

The above concludes the build of the hardware.

The repair of the Hotend Canbus module, the build of the enclosure and so on will all be added as additional posts.

The firmware and configs is described in another post HERE

Video van WhatsApp op 2024-03-16 om 14.34.15_29d2041d Video van WhatsApp op 2024-03-16 om 14.33.45_8bd30d74

Chevrolet Camaro 1970 3D armrest reproduction

My brother owns a completely overhauled Chevrolet Camaro with power windows (I believe from 1969 or 1971) and asked if I could scan, improve and reproduce the armrests since these are both quite sloppy.

This type of Chevrolet Camaro is the only version that has these large armrests and they are a typical product from those days.

Manufactured from plastic and covered with some kind of latex.

Due to time and usage these armrests are both L and R broken between the actual armrest and the handle that is used to close the door.

This handle is at the front of the door and with these long and heavy doors some force is required to close the doors.

Therefore, we will try to modify the armrest with an additional handgrip in the large part of the armrest.

So- I used my Creality lizard scanner to scan one of the the original armrests and cut the design in 2 connectable parts.  This makes it printable om my Voron300.

After reproduction, the part will get a new leather cover.

After the right hand side is made to fit perfectly, we will also mirror the design to produce the armrest and handle for the left hand side as well.

We will add our pictures to this post as we move along!

The final result of the two 3dprinted parts joined on the right hand door
And the part for the LEFT door of the car
For proper scanning, I had to fixate the front of the armrest.

Scanning did produce a nice textured 3d mesh of the armrest BUT the scan proved to be inadequate when we mesured the length of the scan. This was 8.5 cm (more than 3 inch) shorter than the original armrest.

Above shows an impression of the scan that I made with the Creality lizard 3d scanner. After many retries this was the best I could get. It took a lot of rework to get it to a 100% match with the original armrest.  The armrest is actually too large to be scanned with the Lizard’s rotating platform so it had to be done manually.
In the above picture the diverted length is clear, left is the print of the scan (after rework to get rid of all debri).

Also, the mounting holes were only visible as small round indents in the hull and due to the length decrease they were not at the correct position.

And-another problem occured due to the broken plastic inside the connection between the armrest and the handle: It was very difficult to scan the original armrest with the plate attached.  The plate was however very needed because the handle needs to be fixated to get it at the right position for proper results with scanning.

Plus, the mounting spot that is at the end of the handle was severily damaged and the scan obviously also reproduced this ugly spot.  I reworked this with meshmixer.

Fixing the above and making the 3 mounting holes into the design with a Cad/Cam program (I used both meshmixer and Openscad to get everything done) proved to be very time-consuming.

All in all- I always do my time-keeping when I do specific work- it took around 72 hours of my PC time to get this all done, up until the workable version of the STL files that were OK to be printed.

For scanning I use my Creality lizard scanner on my gaming laptop with built-in RT3060 GPU.

For editing, I use my newest ACER XPS13 laptop with thunderbolt, connected to my Razor external thunderbolt RT3060 graphics box and an external hi-res monitor.

3D printing is the next step that is very time consuming, but thankfully I only need to start the prints up and afterwards get the prints off the machines.

I made about 6 versions of both the designs and the printed parts before everything was OK.

The handle prints in around 6 hours on my twotrees sapphire pro at 100mm/s, 0.3 mm layer height with hi-temp ASA filament (0,6mm nozzle and BIQU high temp direct drive hotend installed).

The large armrest 387 mm long part prints in 20 hours at 0.3 mm layer height, ASA high-temp filament on my Voron 2.4 with a 0.5 mm nozzle.

The results are shown below:

First compare of the 3d printed parts against the original.
This is only the door handle, i.e. the front part that gets screwed onto the larger armrest part with 4 pieces 8mm screws

Above, the repaired mounting hole and its surroundings is shown. This was done with meshmixer.

This design shows the added pocket that I made in the design of the armrest to close the door by using this grip without the need to use the front handle
Final version of the STL file that can be printed either as 1 part with a really large 3d printer or, as I did: print it in 2 parts and connect the parts with 4 pieces 8mm plugs


Free STL download fridge beer bottle organizer by



Rear/top view

Front view

fits regular beer bottles of 330cl

//length regular beer bottle of 330cc is 238mm
//diameter regular 330cc beer bottle is 61mm

The beer bottle box in 3×3 bottles version measures 238 mm deep and  197mm wide & high.

beer bottles 3×3 fridge rack 2023 04 20


And a revised version that can be printed without support:

beer bottles fridge rack with 45deg squared side holes 2023 04 20


And a short version where the bottlenecks will stick out a bit:


beer bottles SHORT fridge rack with 45deg squared side holes 2023 04 20

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