STL files for Minimill WMD16LV CNC conversion direct drive CNC adapters downloads with NEMA23 steppers

Please donate $1 to my paypal account if you use (parts of) my developed materials so I can continue to share nice stuff for you to download

Click on the URL(s) to download the appropriate STL-file(s)

MINIMILL_BF16L CNC_Y_adapter direct



MINIMILL_BF16L CNC_X_adapter direct drive




STL download voor de TOP direct drive adapter van de WMD16LV minifrees en Nema23 stappenmotor

MINIMILL_BF16L CNC_Z_adapter direct drive


STL download  for the belt driven adapters of the WMD16LV minimill and Nema23 

Please donate $1 to my paypal account if you use (parts of) my developed materials so I can continue to share nice stuff for you to download

CLICK on the URL to start the download of the corresponding STL file


MINIMILL_BF16L CNC_Y_adapter belt driven 2023_04_23_V1 MINIMILL_BF16L CNC_Y_adapter LID belt driven 2023_04_23_V1




MINIMILL_BF16L CNC_X_adapter belt driven 2023_04_23_V1 MINIMILL_BF16L CNC_X_adapter LID belt driven 2023_04_23_V1

DOWNLOAD Z-adapter (TOP):

MINIMILL_BF16L CNC_Z_adapter belt driven 2023_04_23_V1



Triton junior lathe

I have had my Triton junior lathe for about 10 years +, but actually I have never really done anything with it.  With the machine I have all the gears, a chuck and a set of reversing jaws for the 3-jaw chuck.

Through the USA lathe club I was able to get a CD with all the details of this lathe.  This lathe was for sale around 1935 in all kinds of versions and under all kinds of brands, especially in the USA.  The Sears and Triton brands are the best known.

Under the lathe I attached a motor with a V-belt and in front of the motor I made a forward/reverse switch.

Only recently have I used the lathe a bit and I actually like it very much.  Until now I mostly used my big lathe, but for small work the Triton junior is also very useful.

By now I do have a quick chisel changer on it, a new quick drill bit spanner and a rotating center on the right side in the fixed center, a good set of all kinds of chisels with change plates and so on.

A larger 3/claw is coming, of 125mm.  That comes with a screw/chuck right away.

Some old photos I took right after the purchase in 2008:

OCTOWS2811, Teensy 1.4 & JINX 64×32 LED display

Using an octoWS2811 is the easiest way to make a LED display as shown above.

For this to work properly you will first need to flash a Teensy module with the correct ARDUINO program and .firmware from HERE:

Arduino IDE – Microsoft Store-toepassingen

Install Arduino including the Teensy libraries and then download the firmware (program file for Arduino, this is an example for 8 straight tubes with 32 x WS2812 ) HERE:


Then connect the Teensy to your PC, check that Ardiuno recognises rthe Teensy and run the driver program to make the Teensy work as WS2812  LCD driver board.

Then, uncouple the Teensy and plug the teensy into the OCTOWS2811 connector module.

In the RJ45 sockets of the OCTOWS2811 module, plug 2 LAN cables and connect the other end to the WS2812 LED modules.

The maximum number of connections to the LED matrices or DIY strings of WS2812’s is 2×4=8 (Octo).

Then, download JINX HERE: jinx

Run JINX directly  (as jinx.exe , no install needed) after you have decompressed the files.

Connect the Teensy with the USB port to your PC/Laptop.

Power your LED matrices to a beefy 5V PSU.

Check yor wiring.

Define your WS2812  setup in JINX (size X*Y, type of direction, zigzag or other, etcetera) so the output will be pre-formatted correctly for your setup.

Start any output and test it.

If not OK, redefine our preformatted setting of the matrix/tubes setup.


DIY windbelt for simple and free energy

A magnet is set into vibration as the wind brings a tightly stretched string or tape into resonance. The magnet is attached to the tape and moves in a coil of copper wire.  The coil is connected to a rectifier and provides energy as the magnet moves back and forth.

That’s the principle of the windbelt.

There have been some initiatives with windbelts around 2010, but you need quite a few of them to make a little energy.  And, of course, it has to be blowing….

Solutions have been made with large numbers of windbelts mounted in windows, in vineyards between fields, and also in areas where there is no electricity at all but the wind does blow.

If you combine a number of windbelts with a solar panel you can make fairly off-grid calls…. -)

Example of a window setup with windbelts:

Example of another DIY kit:

(We can supply this kit on request, we always have 10+ kits on stock)

Other DIY examples:

The theory:

Resonance theory with the famous narrow bridge @ Tacoma narrows that collapsed in 1940 , November 7th, due to the wind :


And another setup of a working windbelt:

Soldering aluminum

With an ordinary soldering torch you can solder aluminum with special rods, at a much lower temperature than when you can weld aluminum.  If you clean the materials with a stainless steel brush and preheat the materials well on, for example, a 4-burner stove, you can solder aluminum with an ordinary soldering torch (for tin).  I managed it and it is absolutely hard and tight!
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