BYD Atto3 -Spare tire in the trunk

Above the filling of the space at the bottom of the trunk of the Atto3 is shown.

I like to drive around with a spare tire, because I drive on construction sites quite often, and so far I have had 2x tire damage because of that.  And such a damage is not always fixable with a fluid repair kit.

It’s going to be a home-bringer also used on a Toyota RAV4 : R17 165/80/17 tire and a 5X114.3X60.1 rim with the same circumference, pitch and center hole as the BYD Atto3.  The RAV4 is still a bit heavier than the Atto3, so it should be fine.

At the bottom of the trunk the available space for a home-bringer is only 57 centimeters in diameter for a spare tire.

This means that the spare tire will be slightly higher mounted, on a mounting bracket.  Under the spare tire there is then room for the jack and the likes.

The trunk cover had 2 positions, and this shelf at the bottom of the trunk therefore only comes to one possible mounting depth, i.e. in the highest position.

So- that’s how I positioned the spare tyre (from a Toyota RAV4, 17 inch) in the boot of the car.  Not the nicest way but it works OK. The shelf that comes with the car can be positioned in the upper position no problem.  I added a hydraulic mini jack and a wheel bolt wrench, since this was not part of the car’s accessories.

Silencing my HD Heritage

If you look at the current rules for noise and noise pollution from motorcycles, it seems like a jungle that you can’t get through.

What is clear is: If you do not meet the noise standard, there is a chance that your motorcycle will get impounded OR your registration of the bike gets invalidated and you will no longer be allowed to drive on public roads.

Noise and older engines
For older engines it is in usually not known what the maximum noise allowance in dB(A) is.

This does not mean that you can produce an unlimited level of noise.

Therefore, general guidelines for this type of vehicles  have been drawn up  y the Dutch government.

The cylinder capacity of the motorcycle is leading in those guidelines.

These sound values are of course always dependent on engine revvs.

For example, in the Netherlands the sound of engines built before 1960 should be measured at 2000 rpm (4-stroke) or 2250 rpm (2-stroke). For motorcycles built after 1960, these rpm’s are respectively 4000 and 4500. For a Harley, at 4000 rpm it is actually only possible to stay under the standard of 106dB(A) with well damped exhausts.

Measuring motorcycle noise by the police
The Dutch police measures sound output stationary.

The microphone is placed at 50 cm from the exhaust mouth at an angle of 45 degrees (may deviate 10 degrees).

The rpm sensor is placed on the spark plug wire. If that is not possible the police measures the pulses of the ignition coil.

The RPM is entered into the measuring equipment.

The law-enforcer then turns up the gas three times and the highest noise level counts.

Just to average: If you get above 110 dB(A) with a heavy engine at 4000 RPM, it costs money.

An after market exhaust may (according to the rules) not produce more sound than the original exhaust.

But in practice, especially in the past, many open exhausts were sold and mounted.

And with such exhausts it is impossible to get below the legal noise standard with any kind of dB-killer.


And now what?

If you want to avoid all this misery, it is better to make your exhaust system meet the required test standard or at least the standard that applies to your bike.

This can be done in various ways:

  • Either you mount on your motorcycle an original exhaust system, as present at the original delivery and stay within the license plate related standard;
  • Or you make sure that exhausts are mounted with the E4-Dutch approval standard, appropriate to the year and type of motorcycle and stay within the vehicle’s registered standard;
  • Or if there is no testing standard for your motorcycle: Make sure the exhaust meets the ‘general’ Dutch testing standard of 106 dB(A) at 4000RPM (for engines of more than 1000cc).


My solution for less noise:

My 2004 HD Heritage FLSTCI originally had European approved exhausts  with E4(NL) approval when delivered.

But when I bought it in 2019 it had an aftermarket ‘real dual’ V&H eliminator 400 open exhaust system mounted without baffles:

I tried reducing the noise by mounting an original baffle set from V&H with silenced baffles, including a damping pack with fiberglass mat, rolled up around the baffles.

Then I mounted everything and indeed much less noise, but above 1000 RPM still much more noise than the allowed 106 dB(A) as stated in the licence papers of the bike.

So, this did not solve the noise level in the end.

Final solution

Finally I was able to get my hands on a used set of original HD cruiser exhaust silencers, one of E1 (German origin)  and one E4 (Dutch).

These I will mount, even though the mounting brackets have to be moved on the silencers.

Many of these silencers have been intentionally demolished internally, so you should be careful what to buy!

The bike, still with the V&H silencers mounted.

Below the existing mounting points of the Vance&Hines Eliminator 400 brackets and mufflers are shown:

With these HD Catalist E1 marked exhausts I am now in whisper mode, which is very much appreciated when driving through big cities

Traction avant 1955 big trunk conversion to wheel

Recently (9-2021) I was able to buy me a tailgate and wheel cover from a wheeled TA version.  This was the start of my project to convert my 1955 Citroën Traction Avant into a wheeled version.

It’s a matter of taste of course, and I just think a wheeled version is much nicer than such an imposed trunk.

Below you can see what my car would look like with a wheel instead of a trunk:

And, for comparison what my car looks like BEFORE the conversion to wheel:

Picture  dates from 2007

The trunk hangs from the part of the body directly under the rear window.

On a wheel version, there is still a section of sheet metal under the “kink” in the sheet metal that is under the window.  That is completely missing from the trunk model.

And the underside in terms of sheet metal runs all the way through (gray) , including under the trunk lid (gray lid with black wheel cover).  This should be constructed anyway, and connected to the existing trunk floor plate. Everything under and behind it has to be removed so also the spare wheel well and the existing extra extension of bumper brackets and the ‘standard’ extra bolted-on sheet metal.

The fender points L and R are connected with a piece of sheet metal, under the fixed body (grey). This sheet metal part is still readily available as an aftermarket part.

THE APPROACH – is planned for mid 2022, after finishing the ID20 –

LPG tank out, gasoline tank out from under it.


First, a fender edge is made that follows the exact shape of the trunk lid of the wheeled version.   Then a sheet metal edge is made that fits in the hole created when removing the existing boot lid.  After that, it’s going to be a lot of fitting and measuring.  Temporarily the new sheet metal part with sheet metal edge for the lid is fixed with U-strips instead of the lid.  This makes everything a lot easier to handle.


Next, the new sheet metal part is fixed in place and secured with small MIG dots.
Then mark where the excess material needs to be removed.
Grinding off the new sheet metal, and
everything to size, strip the edges and reposition the new part
Welding the new part in place, measurements and dots.
Weld in the 2nd round of dots.
Then fit the valve.
Mount the valve and fix it (by MIG welding the dots to the edge of the plate).
Then weld the plate to the body with a few spots at a time, and keep cooling with air.
Weld in further and further until everything is welded in, and wait and cool with compressed air.
Then without heating grind flat with flapper wheel and
Then use fiber 2-K waterproof filler to seal the weld and immediate area.
Then bondo over the whole, and
flush with 60 grid.
Filler primer over it,
spray contrast on,
manually level with 200,
then spray again contracts
and flatten with 400 etc.
Remove pinholes and again after
Contrast spray and sand with 800.
Waterproof sanding with 1200 and
then to the painter.

CAUTION to use light gray filler, bondo etc. of the same hue/color, this will save possible misery afterwards when spraying.

GPL in my 1955 Traction Avant

The reason for installing LPG is not because of cost.  I hardly ever drive the car, and starting with LPG is just a lot easier. 
And-the consideration to drive on LPG is also made from environmental considerations, next to ease of use.
By means of a well regulated LPG installation preferably WITH use of a  lambda probe, the emission of harmful substances is reduced considerably.
Why not do a gasoline injection with lambda sensor and controller?  This solution was preferred but did not fit easily on the ID19D cylinder head. To fit the petrol and/or GPL injectors properly you need to be able to use individual inlet ports and with this cylinder head only 1 external inlet point is available.

The distribution to the intake ports is all hidden inside the cylinder head.

Drilling-in channels for any petrol or LPG injectors is therefore not possible (at least not easily for me).

An after market valve lubrication system has been installed.

The evaporator and gas tank are of traditional origin.

The entire electrical system as well as the valves and pipes were simply purchased over the Internet from an authorized LPG supplier.

The LPG injection was not done with a traditional intake manifold but with SPUDS, directly into the intake venturis of the double Weber carburetor, due to space constraints.

This was done both for the LPG intake, with large spuds and for the lube intake but with small spuds.

The photos show some of this in detail.

The LPG spuds are screwed into the side of the carburetor, and come from a donor evaporator where they were used as water inlet and outlet adapters.

These adapters are the right size and have a nice kink on 1 side that allows the LPG to get into the flow of the venturis properly.

The Traction has 2 venturis because the engine upgrade to a Citroen ID19dD including cylinder head, carburetor and air filter was done.

To do everything neatly I applied the latest governmental inspection requirements to the entire installation.

An interesting detail was that a number of requirements do not apply to the traction because the date of admission of the car is already very far in the past.

As far as I understand, the valves and evaporator may be used without a new inspection mark but must at least bear the old inspection mark, whereby age should not be a problem.

As with new cars, the tank must be less than 10 years old, and the filler hose less than 1 year old.

The LPG hoses that are used must have an approval mark, the line for supply between tank and valve and between valve and vaporizer must be properly secured and may not protrude under the car, etc.

Traction Avant fully electronic ignition

Really crappy, I don’t have another word for it: The old contact point ignition with its coil. I tried 3 of them on 6 volts and the combination of 6 volt battery, starter motor and points always gave me trouble, both with cold and hot starts. So I installed an electronic one, and NO 123 ignition. Just an English ignition, specially for 6 Volts OR 12 Volts. First installed with the 6 Volt installation and it worked perfectly. Still does, but now on 12 Volts.

From 60 to 83 HP with a DW engine in the Traction Avant 11BN

In the TA I have had 3 engines from 2006:
1) The original TA engine that turned out to be cracked at the corner of the lower block;
2) An ID19P long-stroke lower block that I  assembled with the parts from the original engine such as the overhauled ID11 TA head, TA sump, etc.
3) The final DW long-stroke engine from a donor Citroën ID19 (early DS model 1), including the ID19 head, carburetor, manifold, oil pan and modified (=shortened) crankshaft.
Below I added an overview of all of my engine exchanging photos:


The original TA under block

The ID19P engine

The DW block with shortened crankshaft.  

Below you can see how I used the TA head, oil pan, oil pump, camshaft, pushrods, water pump and so on in option 2) to be able to drive the Traction again with the ID19P engine.

Above you see the first replacement engine that worked in my TA for about 4 years. It is an ID19P engine that fit my Traction without question. I transferred the head from the Traction engine and the camshaft as well.  Unfortunately the oil pressure of this engine was too low to be reliable when the engine was warm.  Probably too much wear. In the picture below you see this block with the TA head on it and with the 3-speed gearbox mounted.  Update 3-2021: After I put the right (SAE30) engine oil in this block, the problem with oil pressure also disappeared completely at warm engine!

With option 3), so the second engine that I bought together with the 4-speed gearbox, a DW engine, the crankshaft had to be shortened because I wanted the vibration damper to come off, see the pictures below:

The DW engine

Above: Crankshaft of the DW engine in the lathe

Above: The right part is already quite turned, the thread is already cut just right of the (to fit back) camshaft gears and the remainder of the right-hand thread can now be cut off.

Above: At the same time the oil pump was overhauled with new gears

And I replaced the aluminium oil pan that was torn during transport with one that I still had lying around. I later repaired this oil pan with aluminum solder [LINK].

Almost ready for the test run, you can also clearly see here that it is not a TA head, just an exhaust manifold on this side.  This block was perfect, both in compression and oil pressure.  Also at hot engine fine!   Underneath this block an aluminum sump pan was placed again so the original oil pump could be mounted again.

Here you can clearly see why the balance wheel has to come off on a traction avant: The rear engine mount sits on the camshaft distributor cover, that’s going to be a bit tricky to rebuild all that while retaining the balance wheel

DW engine specs:

  • construction years: 3/1963-8/1965
    bore: 78 mm
    stroke: 100 mm
    capacity: 1911 cc
    features: 3 main bearings on crankshaft, slightly convex pistons, balance wheel on timing gear, internal intake manifold, nameplate on carburetor side;
    used carburettors: Weber
    power output declared by Citroen: 83 hp (sae) 61 kW
    fitted in; DS manual, ID Break and ID Export (according to De Serres)
    Citroen ID DW block ready for assembly in Traction Avant 11BN

    • Citroen ID DW blok gereed voor montage in Traction Avant 11BN
The head of the BW block, with the TA water pump mounted on it. That all just fitted.

Side of the DW block with the sealing plate on the left where the hydraulic pump sits on an ID. The cloth is on the place for the fuel pump.

For comparison the crankshaft of the TA original (top) and the ID BW (right)

ID BW engine with on the left the protrusion that should come off

My solution to reassemble everything correctly: When disassembling, fix it right away!

Volvo V70-II replacing 5-cylinderhead and -gasket

From my V70 5-cylinder with G3 LPG system, 1 valve was burned at purchase in 2015, hence the low price.

The V70-II in 2015 after the cylinder head replacement and other small repairs

The engine light sometimes illuminates, but you can ‘reset’ that according to the seller from Harderwijk (NL).

Also, the side window of the left front door was at the bottom of the door and apparently a window slider had broken off.

But the car was drivable so after the purchase I calmly drove it to my garage at home, parked it in reverse and got to work.

I bought the window guides from aliexpress and the replacement head from an old-fashioned Volvo garage in Westland for 200 Euros.

From the replacement cylinder head I replaced the valve stem rubbers as a precaution and ground all the valves just to be sure.

The head that I took off the car I later also overhauled by cleaning the valve seats, new valves of the first cylinder and new valve seals.

And all valves re-grinded.  That head I sold much later via Marktplaats to a hobbyist with the same LPG problem I had with my LPG car.

Ik heb na de kopvervanging gelijk een klepsmeersysteem gemonteerd, met een controlelampje op het dashboard wanneer de smeervloeistof op is.

Car parked in my garage and ready to start the work!

Below you will find my photos, without further comment but I think everything is pretty self-explanatory.