3d printer IDEX PrusaBear dual X-axis for dual independant extruders

Looking at all the different IDEX designs that are based on either a coreXY setup, a Prusa3, Bear or not-, or on an Ender3/10 setup, I chose to do it from scratch.

An IDEX printer has independantly extruders, but nowhere is mentioned in what sense or -way the indepentand extruders are defined.

Since I have much experience with my dual Bear setup, where I park the hotend carriages and use 1 moving centerpiece with electromagnets to catch either the left carriage with hotend or the right carriage and hotend, I think that making a new printer for IDEX from scratch will be a good idea.

I did get my I3bear with IDEX on a single X-axis with magnetic carriages on the same axis running very well in the end.

Contrary to my A30M with a Chimera fixes dual hotend/extruder. That works very well, but also has its limitations. Limitations like low speed and the fact that you will always have some dripping on your object from the other nozzle, that is fixed at about 22mm to the right or left of the active nozzle. But- it is a really good solution for an 0.6mm nozzle, if you push the layer height to 0. 3 mm.

For my IDEX setup I will to use a standard Bear frame, made from 2040 aluminium, and all axes are based on standard I3 dual rods. Then, add a frond and a rear X-axis to the frame with each having its own Z-drives. Then, it looks like this:

The only additional printed parts needed are the X-axis motor holder for the rear and 2 top Z-holders:

The rest is all standard I3bear stuff.

For this printer I need a motherboard with 7 drivers, being 2*X, 1*Y, 2*Z and 2*E.

Since I have a Fly407 MB with 9! driver positions in stock, already programmed for RRF3, wifi and with an LCD unit attached, I will use this to get a Duet setup with Duet Web Controller along. easy to reprogram, and I can finally check the board’s capabilities.

I just need to get me a casing for the board, but that’ll not prevent me from using it!

20 November 2021

Printing at maximum width on my Geeetech A30M with PETG and the Duet2wifi board

Yesterday I exchanged the dual nozzle printerhead (Chimera) that I have been using for dual printing all kinds of goodies like my name tag and several dual color prints, with the original single nozzle-dual extruder head.

I needed to print a LED lights circular holder that is 328mm wide, and the setrup with the Chimera just does net get that wide on the X-axis.

The result is below: It took some tweaking in the bed size settings but I have exactly 330×330 X*Y available, awesome!

12 November 20213 July 2022

Building a Prusa mini clone (Fysetc parts)

Last week (2021-Nov-04) I ordered me a Prusa mini clone from Aliexpress.

I already have an original Prusa Mini from the moment it was offered by Prusa. I waited for over 1/2 a year to get it delivered as I was one of the (almost) first to order it. And- I value the machine very positive.

I use it for professional prints, mostly with white, orange and black PETG.

I hope that my additional Prusa Mini will be just as perfect as my original one.

On Ali, everything was offered except the printed parts. It includes a buddyboard 32 bits with 2209 drivers, LCD 2.6 inch, 3 motors, nuts and bolts, cables, hoses, bearings, clamps, hotbed, pei sheet, rods, extruder, fans, extrusion, you name it, really everything is included for 105 Euro’s . But- you guessed it- I never got anything delivered. I have a dispute running now, hopefully I wiull get the money back. And- I ordered a new one, now the costs are more than double, as is to be expected.

As add-on I ordered 2 renewed Z-sensors (including temp sensor) from Prusa for Eur 50 incl. Tax and shipment. With this, both mini’s can be upgraded to Mini+ 3d printers. Except the longer bed of course. Also, both the buddyboards will get the Mini+ firmware.

Since I also own an original Prusa mini, printing the parts was easy, as you can see in the attached pictures.:

Still, also a Prusa mini can have stringing wth PetG. OR, i think this was caused because I purposely set the temp very high to get extremely solid prints. Whatever, I cleaned the printed parts afterwards with a knife and that turned out to be easy enough.

The black PETG parts got printed on my Ender 3 pro+.

Built after receival of the non-printed parts on 2021-12-22 JMWG.NL

I upgraded the Buddyboard V1.0.0 straight away to the latest Prusa Mini firmware and compared the prints against my Original Prusa Mini.

I honestly could not see any difference between the two of them.

The stuff I ordered on Ali:

Https://github.com/FYSETC/FYSETC-Prusa-mini-clone

3.2/2.8 MW power is momenteel in voldoende voorraad, bent u welkom om een bestelling plaatst, de voorraad is in de Spaanse magazijn, dank u voor uw steun,

Video tutorial:

Pakket:
Schroef kit 1
Tool kit 1
USB disk 1
Gladde staven kit 1
3030 extrusie kit 1
625 lager 3
12.5mm, 3mm OD as 1
4.9*12mm as 1
16T GT2 Katrol (als MK3) 2
Platte Katrol (als MK3) 2
X/Y riem 2
LM8UU 5
LM10LUU 2

Elektronica
Motoren kit 1
Buddy besturingskaart 1
Thermistor hotend 1
Thermistor verwarmd bed 1
Filament sensor kit 1
Heatedbed 1
Verwarmd bed kabel 1
LCD (als kiezen) 1
24V 40w cartridge 1
PSU (als kiezen) 1
Minda 1
Fans 2
Extruder versnellingen 1
Hotend kit 1
Bowden tube 1
Y vervoer 1
Z bodemplaat 1
Gouden textuur stalen plaat 1

Dit product omvat niet prints. Als u of kopen het zelf, het bestand afdrukken link: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4338197
3.2 inch scherm case STL Link:https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4307001

7 November 202123 April 2023

Minimill CNC conversion WMD16LV Z-axis adapter for NEMA23 direct drive

While I was making my CNC adapter plates with teethed wheels and belts, I discovered that not much exists that is ready to use for these conversions.

DOWNLOAD:

MINIMILL_BF16L CNC_Z_adapter direct drive 2022_07_25_V1_5-jantec.nl

I am therefore also making direct drive adapter parts, to try this out.

This is the third piece I make for direct drive, for the Z-axis.

This pice is fairly simple: First a good fit is needed to mount the adapter to the top of the Z-column, and the holes for the 4 bolts need to be acactly correct. Also, the same for the leadscrew hole of the bearing holder.

Then, on top of this, the Nema23 holder/mounting is projected. Including all needed boltholes, nutholes and a side hole for tightening the coupler.

The leadscrew has an outside part for the handwheel we will use for CNC that is 10mm, and some thread 10mm for Z. The thread is needed to be bolting the angular bearings (not meant for side torque) with some torque to the bearing holder.

If you do direct drive, you need a special coupler that can be split in 2. Then, you first mount one part on the leadscrew with some rings between the mill and the coupler part so that the nut can be placed in the coupler. If the thread is too long, grind some off.

Then, put the rubber (with centerhole) back in the coupler’s mounted part and push the other part in the rubber, so the coupler is complete.

Then, mount the printed adapter with already mounted Nema23 motor on the Y-axis and push the Nema shaft in the coupler. Use the adapter’s right hand side working window to torque the connector on the Nema shaft and you’re done!

Should you want to have a handwheel as well, this is possible but you will have to buy a stepper with an axis that is both at the front as the rear. (this is called ‘double shaft’ but is actually a longer shaft, obviously.]

GOTO the X-axis Direct Drive adapter

GOTO the Y-axis Direct Drive adapter

7 November 202123 April 2023

Minimill CNC conversion WMD16LV X-axis adapter for NEMA23 direct drive

While I was making my CNC adapter plates with teethed wheels and belts, I discovered that not much exists that is ready to use for these conversions.

DOWNLOAD:

MINIMILL_BF16L CNC_X_adapter direct drive 2022_07_25_V1_5-jantec.nl

I am therefore also making direct drive adapter parts, to try this out.

This is the second piece I make for direct drive, for the X-axis.

The leadscrew has an outside part for the handwheel we will use for CNC that is 10mm, and some thread 8mm. The thread is needed to be bolting the angular bearings (not meant for side torque) with some torque to the bearing holder.

Then, put the rubber (with centerhole) back in the coupler’s mounted part and push the other part in the rubber, so the coupler is complete.

GOTO the Direct Drive Y-axis adapter

GOTO the Direct Drive Z-axis adapter

DOWNLOAD the latest version of the STL printfiles

Please donate $1 to my paypal account if you use (parts of) my developed materials so I can continue to share nice stuff for you to download

5 November 202123 April 2023

Minimill CNC conversion WMD16LV Y-axis adapter for NEMA23 direct drive

While I was making my CNC adapter plates with teethed wheels and belts, I discovered that not much exists that is ready to use for these conversions.

DOWNLOAD:

MINIMILL_BF16L CNC_Y_adapter direct 2022_07_25_V1_5-jantec.nl

I am therefore also making direct drive adapter parts, to try this out.

This is the first one, starting with the most difficult one. The rest will be added soon.

Version 1.2 which is 15 mm shorter and much more robust:

If you do direct drive, you need a special coupler that can be split in 2. Then, you first mount one part on the leadscrew with some rings between the mill and the coupler part so that the nut can be place in the coupler. If the thread is too long, grind some off.

Then, put the rubber (with centerhole) back in the coupler’s mounted part and push the other part in the rubber, so the coupler is complete.

Should you want to have a handwheel as well, you will have to buy a stepper with an axis that is both at the front as the rear. (this is called ‘double shaft’ but is actually a longer shaft, obviously.

OR- my latest design works a bit different: first put a couple of 10mm rings on the leadscrew’s 10mm axle, and then screw a threaded RVS tube with an outer diameter of 12mm, 25 mm long and internal 8mm thread on the axle. This goed into a 12 to 8mm coupler and this coupler connects to a NEMA23 stepper motor with an 8 mm axis. It does get a bit lengthy but it works very well. Just threadlock the RVS threaded tube to the leadscrew’s 8mm threaded end and it will run OK!

This is the last version, based on the above setup:

GOTO the Dirext Drive X-adapter

GOTO the Direct Drive Z-adapter

DOWNLOAD the latest version of the STL printfiles

Please donate $1 to my paypal account if you use (parts of) my developed materials so I can continue to share nice stuff for you to download

31 October 202130 November 2024

CNC conversion of my Toolmania WBM16LV (TM BF 16) mill with NEMA23 steppers, 3dprinted adapters, teethed wheels and teethed belts

Before My Toolmania WBM16LV milling machine was delivered I already had plans to convert it to a CNC milling machine.

I do have some experience with 3d printing, and I have 2 CNC routers up and running, like the Indymill. So, the conversion of this mill will not be difficult in the Technical sense. But- making the perfect designs for the adapter plates of the Y- and X- axes proved to be a lot more work than I expected.

Please donate $1 to my paypal account if you use (parts of) my developed materials so I can continue to share nice stuff for you to download

The column cutter is already equipped with glass scales with digital readout. Furthermore, there is a gas spring mounted on the Z-column so that not all the weight is in the way when moving back and forth. Also an automatic lubrication system for the slides of X, Y and Z-axis will be mounted.)

DOWNLOAD ALL MY CNC TEETHED ADAPTER DESIGNS as .STL files

The electronics will become OpenCNC + wifi + wireless controlbox. I received the kit and will put it together the coming weeks. For now I am going to set the mill up with my all-in one USB-CNC-MDK2 board. I use this for all of my routers and mills to get it set up in first instance since it is very simple and sturdy. And- you can run it instantaniously without any PC or programming, just with the handwheel or from SD card. And from the laptop, of course.

GOTO the X axis CNC adapter

GOTO the Y axis CNC adapter

GOTO the Z axis CNC adapter

DOWNLOAD MY CNC ADAPTER DESIGNS as .STL files

LATEST NEWS:

After this all worked well, I also made designs for NEMA direct drive adapters on my Toolmania MiniMill:

Above: Direct drive adapter for the Z-axis

left top the Z-axis adapter, right the X axis adapter and at the bottom the Y-axis adapter

What makes it tricky is the choice to make: Will I replace the spindles with ball bearing spindles or not? Not for the time being, first let’s make everything on CNC and then I’ll see how it performs.

30 October 20218 August 2022

Minimill CNC conversion Toolmania WMD16LV endstops

2021-10-30: When converting (or upgrading, depends on your P.O.V.) a mill to CNC, it is absolutely necessary to have end stops on all ends. Except the low-end of the Z-axis, an end stop at the Z-axis low end is practically impossible.

On the Z-axis low end another solution has been established by using a Z-stop from the milling toolbit on a fixed X-Y position, OR by testing with the toolbit in place on the matrerial by sight or electronically.

I bought a Z-position sensor for this, which is nothing more than an electrically insulated round pod with a flexible brass top. It is with one wire connected to the Mach3- motherboard as Z-probe and triggers when the tooltip touches the top of the Z pod’s brass top. Therefore, this trigger is defined as ACTIVE when it is conected to Ground. Since the mill will be grounded and thus also the tooltip is always connected to ground. You MUST ground the mill, by the way. Also for your safety.

Leaves us with the 5 enstops for which I have bought the thinnest available inductive sensors. These are M6 size round and about 8 cm long. These sensors require power, ground and since they are NPN type sensors which means Normally OPEN when NOT active, they will ground the output pin when activated at reaching the the stop position. To activate these inductive sensors, a carbon- containing metal would be best to use and bring the sensor close. The trigger moment depends on the connected power voltage. The higher the voltage, the more sensitive the sensor becomes.

I will use 12 Volts or 24 Volts, I will experience a bit with these settings.

On the net I was unable to find any plug and play sensor holders for my mill, so I developed these holders again from scratch in OpenScad.

Fortunately, I have a lot of starting material in OpenScad from my previous projects.

The X axis left:

The X axis right hand side:

The Y axis front:

The Y axis rear:

The Z-axis top:

28 October 20213 July 2022

Minimill CNC conversion WMD16LV Z-axis adapter for NEMA23 and M3 teethed belt

New version V3 after the second fit:

The mount on the Z-column needed to get UP so the NEMA23 teethed wheel gets at the same level as the wheel that is mounted on the leadscrew.

Required hardware:

3d printed Z-axis adapter
Nema23 stepper 76 mm length with enough torque, 8mm axle diameter
48teeth M3 teethed wheel of 11mm width, 10mm hole with collar for the leadscrew
24 teeth M3 teethed wheel 11mm width , 8mm hole with collar for the Nema23 stepper motor
new M6 40mm length bolts flathead for the top connection to the Z column
4 bolts and nuts M5 to mount the Nema 23 stepper
teethed belt 300mm M3 (100 teeth) 9 or 10mm

OR, use the 72 teethed wheel on the leadscrew and get a larger length belt of (I estimate) 330-350 mm

OR.. another way to mount the Nema23stepper is at the rear of the Z column, BUT I don’t want it to stick out at the rear, that’s why I decided to mount the stepper at the left of the Z-column…