Mamiya RZ67 downloads

RZ67_Pro_v4 original user manual

Mamiya-RZ67-pro- repair_manual

 

A complete Mamiya RZ67 Pierre-Gilles guide to the Mamiya RZ67 Pro part one deep system overview

A complete guide to the Mamiya RZ67 part two film holder system

A complete guide to the Mamiya RZ67 part 3 lenses filters and accessories

A complete guide to the Mamiya RZ67 part 4 maintenance and miscellaneous accessories

A complete guide to the Mamiya RZ67 part 5 conclusion and Pierre Gilles’s personal stories

Mamiya_RZ67_AE_Prism_Finder_II_Product_Sheet

Mamiya_RZ67_AE_Prism_Finder_Product_Sheet

Mamiya RZ67 PD Prism Finder

Mamiya RB-RZ67 Polaroid Back

Mamiya RZ67 Winder II RZ

Mamiya RZ67 Winder RZ

Mamiya RZ67 Pro II Electrical Contact Cover

Mamiya RZ67 Teleconverter 1.4x

Mamiya_RZ67_140mm_Macro_MLA_Product_Sheet

Mamiya RZ67 100-200mm Zoom

Mamiya RZ67 37mm f4.5 Fisheye

Mamiya_RZ67PRO IID_Instructions

Mamiya RZ67 Pro II Instructions

MamiyaRZ67_Pro_v4

Mamiya-RZ67-parts-catalogue

Mamiya-Seiko-Shutter-Repair

mamiya_rz67_250_apo_lens_repair_diagram

mamiya_rz_140mm_m_l_a_diagram

mamiya_rz67_37mm_fisheye_lens_repair_diagram

Mamiya-RZ67-repair-manual-part1

Mamiya-RZ67-repair-manual-part2

Mamiya_RZ67_Z_Interchangeable_Lenses_Product_Sheet

 

Pierre Gilles’s emulsive pages

 

leaf-aptus-user-guide

LeafAptus65 specsheet

Description Leaf_Raw_Converter_1_2_6 PDF only

Leaf_Raw_Converter_1_2_6_installer_PC ZIP_file

 

STL files RZ67 CAPS, and a lot more for 3D printing

 

mamiya-rB67-pro-service_instructions, for reference only

Circular clock WS2812 & Arduino nano

LEES DIT ARTIKEL IN HET NEDERLANDS

In the above video you see all required parts for the elctronics.  An arduino Nano, a time module LS3231 with battery back-up and a 4-parts ring each with 15 WS2812 LED’s that provide a 160mm 60 LED units clock.  You can build it as an open built unit as shown above with wire strings or in a 3d printable slim case that I developed.  See the pictures below.

For building this nice precise clock, you can use my design files for the housing on any 3d printer that has a horizontal bed size of at least 165x165mm.

Grab both the print STL’s . HERE. from the Prusa shared site where I uploaded these designs. (If the link breaks, search on the prusa site for ws2812 circular arduino clock).

OR get the STL file for the clock’s FRONT from my website HERE

AND get the STL file for the clock’s REAR from my website HERE

One STL is for the rear and includes the Nano box, the other is for the front face of the clock.  Position the rear STL 180 degrees (so up goes down) in your slicer, so both the box and the LED housing are at Z-0 level, i.e. facing down at the same horizontal level.   The front can best be printed with the flat side down.  ABS is not recommended since it has less stiffness, but will probably also work.  For me PETG or PLA works best.

Use white filament for the front part, the rear can be any color you like.

In the circle the 4 WS2812 LED segments are positioned in 1 full circle of about 160mm.

Once you have the rear electronics connected, the front will slide snug over it. No glue required.  But the LED ring can best be glued in 4 places with a drop of hotglue to the base of the rear housing.  Best to do this after you are sure everything works OK.

The LED parts are available on a.o. banggood , aliexpress and so on, search for 60LED circle WS2812 that has the 160 mm outer diameter.

Each LED represents a dot either for seconds, minutes or as hour indicator.

The colors detemine the function.  Blue is also used as Quarter indicator with less intensity, to have a feeling of positioning for the other LEDS when it is dark.

Please look at the video above of the ‘open’ demo model to understand how it works.

Below you can find the Arduino code for the used Nano3, as-is.  it works for me, and in the code you will also find all required electrical connections and the used Time module’s spec.

When connected to your PC, you can program the Arduino and via the serial interface you can afterwards change special settings of the clock like brightness, special quarter dimlit indicators, et cetera.  it’s all in the code below.

The controls can be sent via a serial interface with the usb input of the Arduino, via a terminalprogram like YAT or with the Arduino IDE program’s interface.

The commands are:

  • f; fader OFF
  • F; fader ON
  • m (number); dim the 4 blue marker LED’s with value (number)
  • S; sync to RTC time
  • s; sync to System time (computer)
  • t (time); change system time to:
  • b; brightness of all non-marker LEDs

Please donate $1 to my paypal account if you use (parts of) my developed materials so I can continue to share nice stuff for you to download

Hope you will have a good build!

Cheers,

jan

The Arduino code, to be used for programming the Arduino Nano3 is available at the bottom of this post as plain text to be imported in an empty arduino file (with copy and paste).

Take care to use only the libraries and time module that are specified in the code!  The used time module is of the better generation that holds the time very well, also on standby.

When connecting the wires between the neopixel segments, the arduino and the time module, use a temperature-regulated soldering tool.  Use a fan when you are soldering and don’t inhale the toxic gases while soldering.

The Arduino code is shown below, to be imported in Arduino in an .ino file.  With Arduino, you must compile the code to get the Arduino flashed with the program.  If you want to do this easier, you can make use of the binary file I already compiled for both Arduino nano versions (with full memory and with half memory). Both Arduino nano types will be OK to use for this build, but they each require specific firmware.

The last part of this post is the Arduino program for the clock:

 


/**
* NeoClock
*
* Clock using 60 WS2812B/Neopixel LEDs and DS3231 RTC
* Small changes and updates made by jan Griffioen, Amsterdam Europe 2018-2021
* Libraries needed:
* * Adafruit NeoPixel (Library Manager) – Phil Burgess / Paint Your Dragon for Adafruit Industries – LGPL3
* *
* * Arduino Timezone Library (https://github.com/JChristensen/Timezone) – Jack Christensen – CC-BY-SA
* * Time Library (https://github.com/PaulStoffregen/Time) – Paul Stoffregen, Michael Margolis – LGPL2.1
*/

#include <Adafruit_NeoPixel.h>
#ifdef __AVR__
#include <avr/power.h>
#endif

#if defined(ESP8266)
#include <pgmspace.h>
#else
#include <avr/pgmspace.h>
#endif

/* for software wire use below
#include <SoftwareWire.h> // must be included here so that Arduino library object file references work
#include <RtcDS3231.h>

SoftwareWire myWire(SDA, SCL);
RtcDS3231<SoftwareWire> Rtc(myWire);
for software wire use above */

/* for normal hardware wire use below */
#include <Wire.h> // must be included here so that Arduino library object file references work
#include <RtcDS3231.h>
RtcDS3231<TwoWire> Rtc(Wire);
/* for normal hardware wire use above */

#include <TimeLib.h> //http://www.arduino.cc/playground/Code/Time
#include <Timezone.h> //https://github.com/JChristensen/Timezone

#include <EEPROM.h>

//Central European Time (Frankfurt, Paris)
TimeChangeRule CEST = {“CEST”, Last, Sun, Mar, 2, 120}; //Central European Summer Time
TimeChangeRule CET = {“CET “, Last, Sun, Oct, 3, 60}; //Central European Standard Time
Timezone CE(CEST, CET);

TimeChangeRule *tcr; //pointer to the time change rule, use to get the TZ abbrev
time_t utc;

#define PIN 5

unsigned long lastMillis = millis();
byte dimmer = 0x88;
byte hmark = 0;

byte ohour=0;
byte ominute=0;
byte osecond=0;

boolean fader=true;

Adafruit_NeoPixel strip = Adafruit_NeoPixel(60, PIN, NEO_GRB + NEO_KHZ800);

void setup() {

Serial.begin(57600);

strip.begin();
strip.setBrightness(50);

// Some example procedures showing how to display to the pixels:
// colorWipe(strip.Color(255, 0, 0), 50); // Red
//colorWipe(strip.Color(0, 255, 0), 50); // Green
//colorWipe(strip.Color(0, 0, 255), 50); // Blue
//colorWipe(strip.Color(0, 0, 0, 255), 50); // White RGBW
// Send a theater pixel chase in…
//theaterChase(strip.Color(127, 127, 127), 50); // White
theaterChase(strip.Color(127, 0, 0), 50); // Red
//theaterChase(strip.Color(0, 0, 127), 50); // Blue

//rainbow(20);
rainbowCycle(2);
//theaterChaseRainbow(50);

strip.clear();
strip.show(); // Initialize all pixels to ‘off’

Rtc.Begin();

Rtc.Enable32kHzPin(false);
Rtc.SetSquareWavePin(DS3231SquareWavePin_ModeNone);

if (!Rtc.GetIsRunning())
{
Serial.println(“Rtc was not actively running, starting now”);
Rtc.SetIsRunning(true);
}

if (!Rtc.IsDateTimeValid())
{
// Common Cuases:
// 1) the battery on the device is low or even missing and the power line was disconnected
Serial.println(“Rtc lost confidence in the DateTime!”);
}

byte eechk = EEPROM.read(0);
if(eechk == 0xAA) { //Assume this is our config and not a fresh chip
dimmer = EEPROM.read(1);
hmark = EEPROM.read(2);
fader = EEPROM.read(3);
}

timeSync();
}

void calcTime(void) {
utc = now();
CE.toLocal(utc, &tcr);
ohour = hour(utc);
ominute = minute(utc);
if(osecond != second(utc)) {
osecond = second(utc);
lastMillis = millis();

if(ominute == 0 && osecond == 0) {
//Every hour
timeSync();
}
}
}

void addPixelColor(byte pixel, byte color, byte brightness) {
color *= 8;
uint32_t acolor = brightness;
acolor <<= color;
uint32_t ocolor = strip.getPixelColor(pixel);
ocolor |= acolor;
strip.setPixelColor(pixel, ocolor);
}

void drawClock(byte h, byte m, byte s) {
strip.clear();

addPixelColor(m, 1, dimmer);

if(hmark > 0) {
for(byte i = 0; i<12; i++) {
addPixelColor((5*i), 2, hmark);
}
}

h %= 12;
h *= 5;
h += (m/12);
addPixelColor(h, 2, dimmer);
// 0x RR GG BB

if(fader) {
byte dim_s1 = dimmer;
byte dim_s2 = 0;
byte px_s2 = s+1;
if(px_s2 >= 60) px_s2 = 0;
unsigned long curMillis = millis()-lastMillis;
if(curMillis < 250) {
dim_s2 = 0;
dim_s1 = dimmer;
}else{
dim_s2 = map(curMillis, 250, 1000, 0, dimmer);
dim_s1 = dimmer – map(curMillis, 250, 1000, 0, dimmer);
}

// Add blue low intensity dots for 12(0),3, 6 and 9 O’çlock to verify where the clock is positioned..
addPixelColor(15, 128, 10);
addPixelColor(30, 128, 10);
addPixelColor(45, 128, 10);
addPixelColor(0, 128, 40);

addPixelColor(s, 0, dim_s1);
addPixelColor(px_s2, 0, dim_s2);
}else{
addPixelColor(s, 0, dimmer);
}

// add a background color
// setBrightness(Serial.parseInt());
// uint16_t j;
// for(j=0; j<60; j++) { // 1 cycles of colors on wheel
// strip.setPixelColor(j, Wheel(((j * 256 / strip.numPixels()) + j) & 255));
// }

strip.show();
}

byte rounds = 0;

void loop() {
calcTime();

if(rounds++ > 100) {
Serial.print(ohour);
Serial.print(“:”);
Serial.print(ominute);
Serial.print(“:”);
Serial.print(osecond);
Serial.println(“(C)JG-2020”);
rounds = 0;

}
//rainbow(21);
if (osecond == 59){theaterChase(strip.Color(0, 0, 127), 40); }// Blue; }
//if (ominute == 59 AND osecond == 59){theaterChase(strip.Color(0, 127, 0), 50); }// Green}
//if (ohour == 11 AND ominute == 59 AND osecond == 59){theaterChase(strip.Color(127, 127, 0), 50); }// Green}
else {drawClock(ohour,ominute,osecond);}

delay(10);

chkSer();
}

void timeSync(void) {
RtcDateTime dt = Rtc.GetDateTime();
setTime(dt.Hour(),dt.Minute(),dt.Second(),dt.Day(),dt.Month(),dt.Year());

Serial.print(“Synced to: “);
Serial.print(dt.Year());
Serial.print(“-“);
Serial.print(dt.Month());
Serial.print(“-“);
Serial.print(dt.Day());
Serial.print(“-“);
Serial.print(dt.Hour());
Serial.print(“-“);
Serial.print(dt.Minute());
Serial.print(“-“);
Serial.println(dt.Second());
}

void timeSave(void) {
utc = now();

RtcDateTime store = RtcDateTime(year(utc), month(utc), day(utc), hour(utc), minute(utc), second(utc));
Rtc.SetDateTime(store);

Serial.print(“Synced to: “);
Serial.print(year(utc));
Serial.print(“-“);
Serial.print(month(utc));
Serial.print(“-“);
Serial.print(day(utc));
Serial.print(“-“);
Serial.print(hour(utc));
Serial.print(“-“);
Serial.print(minute(utc));
Serial.print(“-“);
Serial.println(second(utc));

}

void setBrightness(byte brightness) {
dimmer = brightness;
}

void chkSer(void) {
unsigned int iy;
byte im,id,iH,iM,iS;

if(!Serial.available()) return;

switch(Serial.read()) {
case ‘b’:
setBrightness(Serial.parseInt());
Serial.print(F(“Brightness changed to: “));
Serial.println(dimmer);
EEPROM.put(0, 0xAA);
EEPROM.put(1, dimmer);
break;
case ‘t’:
iy = Serial.parseInt();
im = Serial.parseInt();
id = Serial.parseInt();
iH = Serial.parseInt();
iM = Serial.parseInt();
iS = Serial.parseInt();
setTime(iH,iM,iS,id,im,iy);
Serial.println(F(“System time changed”));
break;
case ‘f’:
fader = false;
EEPROM.put(0, 0xAA);
EEPROM.put(3, 0);
Serial.println(F(“Fader off”));
break;
case ‘F’:
fader = true;
EEPROM.put(0, 0xAA);
EEPROM.put(3, 1);
Serial.println(F(“Fader on”));
break;
case ‘m’:
hmark = Serial.parseInt();
EEPROM.put(0, 0xAA);
EEPROM.put(2, hmark);
Serial.println(F(“HMark changed”));
break;
case ‘s’:
timeSync();
Serial.println(F(“Synced RTC to System”));
break;
case ‘S’:
timeSave();
Serial.println(F(“Synced System to RTC”));
break;
default:
Serial.println(‘?’);
}
}

// Fill the dots one after the other with a color
void colorWipe(uint32_t c, uint8_t wait) {
for(uint16_t i=0; i<strip.numPixels(); i++) {
strip.setPixelColor(i, c);
strip.show();
delay(wait);
}
}

void rainbow(uint8_t wait) {
uint16_t i, j;

for(j=0; j<256; j++) {
for(i=0; i<strip.numPixels(); i++) {
strip.setPixelColor(i, Wheel((i+j) & 25));//255
}
strip.show();
delay(wait);
}
}

// Slightly different, this makes the rainbow equally distributed throughout
void rainbowCycle(uint8_t wait) {
uint16_t i, j;

for(j=0; j<256*5; j++) { // 5 cycles of all colors on wheel
for(i=0; i< strip.numPixels(); i++) {
strip.setPixelColor(i, Wheel(((i * 256 / strip.numPixels()) + j) & 255));
}
strip.show();
delay(wait);
}
}

//Theatre-style crawling lights.
void theaterChase(uint32_t c, uint8_t wait) {
for (int j=0; j<4; j++) { //do 4 cycles of chasing
for (int q=0; q < 3; q++) {
for (uint16_t i=0; i < strip.numPixels(); i=i+3) {
strip.setPixelColor(i+q, c); //turn every third pixel on
}
strip.show();

delay(wait);

for (uint16_t i=0; i < strip.numPixels(); i=i+3) {
strip.setPixelColor(i+q, 0); //turn every third pixel off
}
}
}
}

//Theatre-style crawling lights with rainbow effect
void theaterChaseRainbow(uint8_t wait) {
for (int j=0; j < 256; j++) { // cycle all 256 colors in the wheel
for (int q=0; q < 3; q++) {
for (uint16_t i=0; i < strip.numPixels(); i=i+3) {
strip.setPixelColor(i+q, Wheel( (i+j) % 255)); //turn every third pixel on
}
strip.show();

delay(wait);

for (uint16_t i=0; i < strip.numPixels(); i=i+3) {
strip.setPixelColor(i+q, 0); //turn every third pixel off
}
}
}
}

// Input a value 0 to 255 to get a color value.
// The colours are a transition r – g – b – back to r.
uint32_t Wheel(byte WheelPos) {
WheelPos = 255 – WheelPos;
if(WheelPos < 85) {
return strip.Color(255 – WheelPos * 3, 0, WheelPos * 3);
}
if(WheelPos < 170) {
WheelPos -= 85;
return strip.Color(0, WheelPos * 3, 255 – WheelPos * 3);
}
WheelPos -= 170;
return strip.Color(WheelPos * 3, 255 – WheelPos * 3, 0);
}

STL files for Minimill WMD16LV CNC conversion direct drive CNC adapters downloads with NEMA23 steppers

Please donate $1 to my paypal account if you use (parts of) my developed materials so I can continue to share nice stuff for you to download

Click on the URL(s) to download the appropriate STL-file(s)

MINIMILL_BF16L CNC_Y_adapter direct 2022_07_25_V1_5-jantec.nl

 

 

MINIMILL_BF16L CNC_X_adapter direct drive 2022_07_25_V1_5-jantec.nl

 

 

 

STL download voor de TOP direct drive adapter van de WMD16LV minifrees en Nema23 stappenmotor

MINIMILL_BF16L CNC_Z_adapter direct drive 2022_07_25_V1_5-jantec.nl

 

Minimill CNC conversion WMD16LV Z-axis adapter for NEMA23 direct drive

While I was making my CNC adapter plates with teethed wheels and belts, I discovered that not much exists that is ready to use for these conversions.

DOWNLOAD:

MINIMILL_BF16L CNC_Z_adapter direct drive 2022_07_25_V1_5-jantec.nl

I am therefore also making direct drive adapter parts, to try this out.

This is the third piece I make for direct drive, for the Z-axis.

This pice is fairly simple: First a good fit is needed to mount the adapter to the top of the Z-column, and the holes for the 4 bolts need to be acactly correct.  Also, the same for the leadscrew hole of the bearing holder.

Then, on top of this, the Nema23 holder/mounting is projected.  Including all needed boltholes, nutholes and a side hole for tightening the coupler.

The leadscrew has an outside part for the handwheel we will use for CNC that is 10mm, and some thread 10mm for Z.  The thread is needed to be bolting the angular bearings (not meant for side torque) with some torque to the bearing holder.

If you do direct drive, you need a special coupler that can be split in 2. Then, you first mount one part on the leadscrew with some rings between the mill and the coupler part so that the nut can be placed in the coupler.  If the thread is too long, grind some off.

Then, put the rubber (with centerhole)  back in the coupler’s mounted part and push the other part in the rubber, so the coupler is complete.

Then, mount the printed adapter with already mounted Nema23 motor on the Y-axis and push the Nema shaft in the coupler.  Use the adapter’s right hand side working window to torque the connector on the Nema shaft and you’re done!

Should you want to have a handwheel as well, this is possible but you will have to buy a stepper with an axis that is both at the front as the rear. (this is called ‘double shaft’ but is actually a longer shaft, obviously.]

GOTO the X-axis Direct Drive adapter

GOTO the Y-axis Direct Drive adapter

 

Minimill CNC conversion WMD16LV X-axis adapter for NEMA23 direct drive

While I was making my CNC adapter plates with teethed wheels and belts, I discovered that not much exists that is ready to use for these conversions.

DOWNLOAD:

MINIMILL_BF16L CNC_X_adapter direct drive 2022_07_25_V1_5-jantec.nl

I am therefore also making direct drive adapter parts, to try this out.

 

This is the second piece I make for direct drive, for the X-axis.

The leadscrew has an outside part for the handwheel we will use for CNC that is 10mm, and some thread 8mm.  The thread is needed to be bolting the angular bearings (not meant for side torque) with some torque to the bearing holder.

If you do direct drive, you need a special coupler that can be split in 2. Then, you first mount one part on the leadscrew with some rings between the mill and the coupler part so that the nut can be placed in the coupler.  If the thread is too long, grind some off.

Then, put the rubber (with centerhole)  back in the coupler’s mounted part and push the other part in the rubber, so the coupler is complete.

Then, mount the printed adapter with already mounted Nema23 motor on the Y-axis and push the Nema shaft in the coupler.  Use the adapter’s right hand side working window to torque the connector on the Nema shaft and you’re done!

Should you want to have a handwheel as well, this is possible but you will have to buy a stepper with an axis that is both at the front as the rear. (this is called ‘double shaft’ but is actually a longer shaft, obviously.

GOTO the Direct Drive Y-axis adapter

GOTO the Direct Drive Z-axis adapter

DOWNLOAD the latest version of the STL printfiles 

Please donate $1 to my paypal account if you use (parts of) my developed materials so I can continue to share nice stuff for you to download

Minimill CNC conversion WMD16LV Y-axis adapter for NEMA23 direct drive

While I was making my CNC adapter plates with teethed wheels and belts, I discovered that not much exists that is ready to use for these conversions.

DOWNLOAD:

MINIMILL_BF16L CNC_Y_adapter direct 2022_07_25_V1_5-jantec.nl

I am therefore also making direct drive adapter parts, to try this out.

This is the first one, starting with the most difficult one.  The rest will be added soon.

Version 1.2 which is 15 mm shorter and much more robust:

  

The leadscrew has an outside part for the handwheel we will use for CNC that is 10mm, and some thread 8mm.  The thread is needed to be bolting the angular bearings (not meant for side torque) with some torque to the bearing holder.

If you do direct drive, you need a special coupler that can be split in 2. Then, you first mount one part on the leadscrew with some rings between the mill and the coupler part so that the nut can be place in the coupler.  If the thread is too long, grind some off.

Then, put the rubber (with centerhole)  back in the coupler’s mounted part and push the other part in the rubber, so the coupler is complete.

Then, mount the printed adapter with already mounted Nema23 motor on the Y-axis and push the Nema shaft in the coupler.  Use the adapter’s right hand side working window to torque the connector on the Nema shaft and you’re done!

Should you want to have a handwheel as well, you will have to buy a stepper with an axis that is both at the front as the rear. (this is called ‘double shaft’ but is actually a longer shaft, obviously.

OR- my latest design works a bit different: first put a couple of  10mm rings on the leadscrew’s 10mm axle, and then screw a  threaded RVS tube with an outer diameter of 12mm, 25 mm long and internal 8mm thread on the axle.  This goed into a 12 to 8mm coupler and this coupler connects to a NEMA23 stepper motor with an 8 mm axis.  It does get a bit lengthy but it works very well.  Just threadlock the RVS threaded tube to the leadscrew’s 8mm threaded end and it will run OK!

This is the last version, based on the above setup:

 

GOTO the Dirext Drive X-adapter

GOTO the Direct Drive Z-adapter

DOWNLOAD the latest version of the STL printfiles 

Please donate $1 to my paypal account if you use (parts of) my developed materials so I can continue to share nice stuff for you to download

CNC conversion of my Toolmania WBM16LV (TM BF 16) mill with NEMA23 steppers, 3dprinted adapters, teethed wheels and teethed belts

Before My Toolmania WBM16LV milling machine was delivered I already had plans to convert it to a CNC milling machine.

I do have some experience with 3d printing, and I have 2 CNC routers up and running, like the Indymill.  So, the conversion of this mill will not be difficult in the Technical sense.  But- making the perfect designs for the adapter plates of the Y- and X- axes proved to be a lot more work than I expected.

The column cutter is already equipped with glass scales with digital readout.  Furthermore, there is a gas spring mounted on the Z-column so that not all the weight is in the way when moving back and forth.  Also an automatic lubrication system for the slides of X, Y and Z-axis will be mounted.)

DOWNLOAD ALL MY CNC TEETHED ADAPTER DESIGNS  as .STL files

The electronics will become OpenCNC + wifi + wireless controlbox. I received the kit and will put it together the coming weeks.  For now I am going to set the mill up with my all-in one USB-CNC-MDK2 board.  I use this for all of my routers and mills to get it set up in first instance since it is very simple and sturdy. And- you can run it instantaniously without any PC or programming, just with the handwheel or from SD card.  And from the laptop, of course.

GOTO the X axis CNC adapter

GOTO the Y axis CNC adapter

GOTO the Z axis CNC adapter

DOWNLOAD MY CNC ADAPTER DESIGNS  as .STL files

LATEST NEWS:

After this all worked well, I also made designs for  NEMA direct drive adapters on my Toolmania MiniMill:

Direct drive adapter for the X-axis
Direct drive adapter for Y-axis

Above: Direct drive adapter for the Z-axis

left top the Z-axis adapter, right the X axis adapter and at the bottom the Y-axis adapter

What makes it tricky is the choice to make: Will I replace the spindles with ball bearing spindles or not?  Not for the time being, first let’s make everything on CNC and then I’ll see how it performs.

Minimill CNC conversion WMD16LV Z-axis adapter for NEMA23 and M3 teethed belt

New version V3 after the second fit:

The mount on the Z-column needed to get UP so the NEMA23 teethed wheel gets at the same level as the wheel that is mounted on the leadscrew.

Required hardware:

  • 3d printed Z-axis adapter
  • Nema23 stepper 76 mm length with enough torque, 8mm axle diameter
  • 48teeth M3 teethed  wheel of 11mm width, 10mm hole with collar for the leadscrew
  • 24 teeth M3 teethed wheel 11mm width , 8mm hole with collar for the Nema23 stepper motor
  • new M6 40mm length bolts flathead for the top connection to the Z column
  • 4 bolts and nuts M5 to mount the Nema 23 stepper
  • teethed belt 300mm M3 (100 teeth) 9 or 10mm

OR, use the 72 teethed wheel on the leadscrew and get a larger length belt of (I  estimate) 330-350 mm

OR.. another way to mount the Nema23stepper is at the rear of the Z column, BUT I don’t want it to stick out at the rear, that’s why I decided to mount the stepper at the left of the Z-column…

This is the 72 teeth 11 mm width teethed wheel that I will probably use for the final mount at the Z-axes. But not with this bracket at the rear. Unfortunately this bracket does not easily fit at the left or right side of the Z-column. I might make a fitting piece to mount it at the left, though. We’ll see how good the 3d printed parts will perform and if needed the Z-axis will be the easiest to use a standard bracket for mounting the stepper motor as shown above.

GOTO the X axis adapter

GOTO the Y axis adapter

DOWNLOAD THE CNC ADAPTER DESIGNS  as STL

Please donate $1 to my paypal account if you use (parts of) my developed materials so I can continue to share nice stuff for you to download

STL download  for the belt driven adapters of the WMD16LV minimill and Nema23 

Please donate $1 to my paypal account if you use (parts of) my developed materials so I can continue to share nice stuff for you to download

CLICK on the URL to start the download of the corresponding STL file

DOWNLOADS Y-adapter (LEFT SIDE):

MINIMILL_BF16L CNC_Y_adapter belt driven 2023_04_23_V1 Jantec.nl MINIMILL_BF16L CNC_Y_adapter LID belt driven 2023_04_23_V1 Jantec.nl

 


 

DOWNLOADS X-adapter (FRONT SIDE):

MINIMILL_BF16L CNC_X_adapter belt driven 2023_04_23_V1 Jantec.nl MINIMILL_BF16L CNC_X_adapter LID belt driven 2023_04_23_V1 Jantec.nl


DOWNLOAD Z-adapter (TOP):

MINIMILL_BF16L CNC_Z_adapter belt driven 2023_04_23_V1 Jantec.nl

 

GOTO THE MINIMILL PAGE

Minimill CNC conversion WMD16LV X-axis adapter for NEMA23 and M3 teethed belt

NEW VERSION with debree screen:

You can 3dprint the entire bottom and debree screen with the risers for the stepper motor at once, as I did in red ABS at 270 degrees C

For this setup you need

  • 1 piece Nema23 56 length stepper motor with 6.35 mm axis
  • 1  piece 12-teethed M3 wheel with collar, hole dia 6.35 mm, 11 mm width
  • 1  piece 24-teethed M3 wheel with NO collar, hole dia 10 mm, 11 mm width
  • Teethed M3 belt , 9 mm wide and length 255 or 275 mm (need to check this)
  • 3d printed parts
  • M8 rings and nut

Here the connection is shown onto the X-axis/ leadscrew bearing holder with 2 M6 bolts.

And front lid:

And the Milling design for the base plate for CNC machining in aluminium should you prefer this.

The 3D print file for the debree cover and the stepper motor risers, to be placed on the aluminium milled base plate:

GOTO the Y axis adapter

GOTO the Z axis adapter

DOWNLOAD THE CNC ADAPTER DESIGNS  as STL

Please donate $1 to my paypal account if you use (parts of) my developed materials so I can continue to share nice stuff for you to download