Citroën ID20 convertible – spring 2024 – the work continues!

After a long period of doing other things, I finally went and got the Citroën DS (ID20) Convertible to get it finished.  The last thing I did was putting the final primer on the car.  Now- the car will get a complete snad-down with P400 and then, I will spraypaint it silver metallic.  First the metallic silver, and then a couple of 2K clearcoat layers.

Due to the fact that my garage is not wide enough, I will have to do the sanding and spraypainting in two phases: First the hood and left side and after that is fully cured, I will reverse the car and do the trunklid and right hand side.

Getting the car and sanding the FRONT and LEFT:

Still to do: Taking off the rear bumper because it’s in the way of sanding the body, lowering the rear windows and taking off the roof cover. And touching up a few imperfections: 1) At the bottom of the left rear fender, a piece of primer has come loose and 2) In the right door a small crack has appeared in the top coat at the weld of the repair part and 3) I made a dent myself on the edge of the right rear fender, barely visible but I’ll get that out.

 

Mazda 3 (2004) Android 11, 10 inch head unit with Steering Wheel Controls SWC

Just (2023-5-28) got the new Android 11 CARPLAY head unit installed in our red Mazda 3 //  1.3 BK(2004).

All went very easy, except the Steering wheel controls.  Turned out I had to cut the delivered control connectrion for SWC2 that went into the OBD control module and reconnect this directly between the head unit and the Mazda’s big connector.  Just like with our previous Android 6 head unit, which in the end got so slow that we decided to toss it for a new one.

The new one is a very fast Andoid 11, octacore 1,6 Ghz 6GB/128GB device, we expect it to outlive the car this time!

We use it mainly for navigating and the new head unit has 2 IMEI’s so we can install a simcard or just share internet with our phone.  We also have android auto which can be sort of nice, although we’ll probably not use that.

The FM radio is very good, and the amplifier as well.

This is what it looks like in the car:

kopie aliexpress product pagina

 

FLSTCI Harley-Davidson Heritage softail 2004

My 2004 fuel-injected HD Heritage is all original, except for the tyres. I decided to get Michelin’s instead of the HD whitewall ones, to get better grip during the rainy days..

The Heritage as I drive it presently

And- Next to the original saddle bags, I added an original Road King top case, also full leather.  Top case and saddle bags are easily detachable with original HD detach kits.  I added locks to all 3 cases.

The exhausts are also HD, but not as it came from the factory.  Due to noise regulations in Europe, I installed extra baffles, full-length in both pipes.

And- the original primary frontwheel has been changed to a bit larger so I can drive on the highway with a bit less rev’s.

To get a bit better braking I exchanged the front brake disc for a larger one.

The lights all around are original HD LED.

Original toolbox was also an aftermarket add-on I installed.

I also exchanged the floorboards for a bit less wide ones, due to scraping the originals over the street now and then.  We have quite a lot of roundabouts in The Netherlands and the softail design in combination with my drive style caused unexpected contact between the floorboards and the concrete.  I did get the softail dampers (this 2006 version has 2 in parallel)  at the highest possible position so the rear swing is a lot stiffer and this gave some additional much needed height…

The bike now has 52.000 Km’s on it, and I wil be driving it a bit more the coming years.

Indymill CNC with Estlcam and Arduino Mega

The Estlcam software is a very well working all-in one solution for CNC machines.

The software has the capability to work with many hardware providers of driver boards like f.i. a simple Arduino mega.

BUT- working with add-ons is limited.  The Ramps shield configuration is supported but not with individually homing of any axes.  However, if you let Estlcam program the firmware of the Arduino Mega, everything works out of the box.  BUT-you will need to connect all the wiring directly to the Mega.

In my search for the best working and most simple solution for driving the Indymill, this Estlcam configuration will be tested as well.

I am still searching for a shield that -in combination with Estlcam and an Arduino Mega or Due- will do everything I want/need like inclusion of 6-7 TMC2209 drivers on 24-48 Volts, dual axes  on X and Y,  dual endstops (high and low), mist/flood switches, LED WS2812 steering, emergency switches/power cuts, spindle RPM and on/off control, et cetera.

The MPCNC shield looks promising but there are others available, also.

The Tillboard shield is also nice,  however I am missing some driver positions for my needs.

One of the nice things of Estlcam is that it will also work with all of the parallel and USB CNC boards that are available like all Chinese clones.  I have some laying around and tried these, they all work well providing you will set it up correctly within Estlcam.

I recently (2021-11) bought an OpenCNC h/w kit from Timo Altholtmann (Germany)  that runs on 2 Arduino Mega mini’s  and is controlled by a.o.Estlcam.

 

Our 3d printers, managed by OCTOPI OR Duet’s web-based app

Above: Our Dual Bear I3 dual color 3d printer with independant carriages, remotely managed by DUET’s webinterface

The Octopi solution works with a Raspberry PI, and on it the Octopi firmware.  The device you set up on your wifi and you connect it to your 3d printer’s USB. Then you have a web interface on the Raspberry’s IP address that allows you to manage all the things about your connected printer.  All the settings like temperature, mesh, and basically anything else you can manage through a local LCD.  And- you can upload your jobs to the raspberry and start/manage and adjust temperature and such.  What I really like is that you can connect a raspberry camera and follow your jobs.

The Duet I find in use and possibilities more pleasant. because in addition to everything that the octopi can, you can also modify the system files online.  And printer updates can do, directly in the firmware.  Moreover, you do not need a separate box because the Duet2wifi already has everything on board.

The disadvantage is that you can’t attach a camera to the Duet. There is a possibility em an IP camera to integrate into the DWC, Duet’s web based remote app.  And such a wifi IP camera is easy to make yourself with a cheap esp unit.

 

Above: The Voron 2.4, dimensions 300x300x220 mm

Prusa Bear I3plus with mods dual Z axis control

 

Kingroon Kp3S heavily modded with new firmware and tool fan

 

Twotrees Sapphire PRO with new firmware

 

Voron 2.4 for Nylon and ABS printing, with external exhaust and 300+ degC printhead, bed up to 150 degC

 

Prusa i3 mini original, the production monster for PETG

 

And the Twotrees Sapphire pro, our perfect printer for fast production

 

And the multicolour completely rebuilt Geeetech A30M dual head printer with a new Duet2Wifi motherboard, dual Chimera heatblock and direct drive extruders

 

 

Kingroon KP3

This is my spare machine, wrapped in – to use when any other machine should have an unsolvable problem (at least- short term).  This 1st version Kingroon KP3 mini always works flawlessly on PLA and PETG. I did add some after market stuff like better cooling, new firmware et cetera.  If I use this machine, I always manage it remotely with an Octopi on RPI.

Vialle D4 LPG evaporator exchanged with Lovato RGV090 evaporator

Due to some diificulty in getting the Vialle D4 evaporator to work properly with the Citroën ID20 and due to the fact that the Lovato RGV090 is made especially for carburetted cars like the ID20, I decided to put the Lovato in the car, and get the Vialle out.

I had previously already overhauled the Vialle D4 with a so-called ‘kit’.  In this kit, all diapragms, the needle and the rubbers were provided.  But, after the overhaul, it never really worked well.

The reason for not working well has to do with a number of things after a lot of research.  First of all, the evaporator is actually far too big for the required power of the engine.  The engine produces a maximum of 90 hp and the Vialle evaporator is then actually still in the lower range.  The result is that everything works but that picking up based on the demand for LPG doesn’t work smoothly.  You notice that with careful acceleration.  You have to push the throttle quite a lot to have effect.

No problem on the motorway, but it is difficult when driving quietly in the city or off the highway.

 

The Vialle D4 does not have a vacuum connection, but shuts off and on with an electric coil. (the one top-right of the above phote) The D4 can therefore also be used for ‘single point injection systems’.

But, I only want the LPG installation to be used as old school self-suctioned carburetted LPG installation.

So, end of February 2020 I put in a factory new Lovato RGV090 which basically is a vacuum controlled evaporator with an electric choke coil.

 

Lovato RGV090

 

On the Lovato evaporator only 1 setting is possible, and that is about the point where the evaporator starts giving LPG on command (and how much, given a specific suction).  The big plastic screw that does this presses on a spring that makes the diaphragm in the evaporator move more difficult when the screw is turned in (clockwise) and makes the diaphragm move easier on the suction of the air inlet when turned out.  This basically means that more LPG goes to the engine when the screw gets turned out more.

This is the setting that you should set to 1.5 % CO at 800-1000 RPM, the so-called stationary setting.

If you set this, the  2nd setting you must make is the throughput screw that is placed anywhere in the path between the carburettor and the evaporator.  Set this screw midway when you are setting the CO to 1.5 at stationary RPM.

After the stationary setting is done, try how the engine reacts to pushing the throttle.  If it does not react fast and firm enough, turn the throughput screw a bit out until the reaction at pushing the throttle is comparable to the situation on petrol.

Then, test drive the car and turn the throughput screw back a little every time until you lose power at full throttle. Then , turn this screw 0,25 to 0,5 turn open and you’re done!

PS: The one screw on the evaporator is NOT a stationary screw.  Although it does affect stationary RPM due to more/less LPG, you can only set it right when you use a CO meter,  Otherwise, you can ruïn your car due to too lean settings.

If you want to do it completely correct, the CO at 3000 RPM should be checked and set to 2.5- max 4 %.  The balance between stationary RPM and RPM 3000 is a difficult one, but make sure that you will NEVER get below the minimum values of 1.5% CO at stationary and 2.5 % CO at 3000 RPM!  And- make sure you use both the screws in adjusting the CO%’s.  Especially at 3000 RPM, you must adjust the screw that is in the LPG line.

If you want a better installation, get a system that utilizes a CO plug that reads the exhaust values of CO to regulate the quantity of supplied LPG.  Such systems are available from Lovato and Vialle, both with injected AND carburetted LPG systems.  It does require some additions to your car’s exhaust but that is all very well possible, should you want it.

 

 

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